Explorations All Over

Paris: A Love Story in Three Acts

• Russ • Season 1 • Episode 7

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Why We Return to the City of Light Again and Again

In this deeply personal episode, Russ invites you along on a multi-decade love story with the City of Light. From a whirlwind 24-hour first visit in 2006 to slow, immersive returns in 2019, 2021, and 2023, discover how Paris evolved from a stopover into a beloved second home.

Whether you're a first-time traveler or a frequent flyer, you’ll find inspiration in the art, food, and unexpected magic of returning to a place that keeps unfolding its secrets.

You’ll Hear About:

  • [00:00] Why land travel can be as enriching as cruising
  • [01:30] The first trip to Paris in 2006
  • [03:00] Returning in 2019: flights, food, hotel, and private tours
  • [08:00] Why private tours can elevate a travel experience
  • [10:00] Dinner cruise and the perfect end to a Paris return
  • [11:30] Traveling with friends and family in 2021
  • [15:00] Splitting up: Versailles vs. Fontainebleau & Vaux-le-Vicomte
  • [17:00] Exploring the Loire Valley: Chenonceau & Chambord
  • [19:00] Capping the trip with a VIP dinner cruise
  • [20:00] A quick return in 2023 and seeing Paris through friends’ eyes
  • [22:30] The joy of returning again and again
  • [24:00] Final reflections: Why favorite places are worth revisiting

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Paris: A Love Story in Three Acts

Why We Return to the City of Light Again and Again

Hey there! I’m Russ, and welcome to Explorations All Over.

Explorations All Over: Paris – A Love Story in Three Acts

Hey there! I’m Russ, and welcome to Explorations All Over.

Today, we’re stepping away from the world of cruising—just for a bit—and diving into something my last guest, Kurt Oswald, mentioned: land vacations. Don’t worry, cruise lovers. I’ll be back with more ship talk soon enough.

But for now, let’s explore a different kind of journey—land travel. Just like cruising has its categories (ocean, river, adventure), land travel comes in many forms too: guided or escorted tours, rail journeys, resort stays, or independent exploring. Sometimes, it’s a blend of those—imagine a rail journey ending at a luxury resort. This is where a good travel advisor really shines: helping you sift through the options and tailor a trip to your style and budget.

Today’s destination? One of my all-time favorites: Paris.

Just saying the name evokes thoughts of romance, art, croissants, and history. It’s a city you can visit again and again and still feel like you’ve barely scratched the surface.

Just so you know, I speak French fluently.  So if you hear an accent creeping in, it’s me not you.

[Music Transition #1: soft Parisian accordion melody]

Let me take you back to 2006. Duncan and I were about to embark on a 12-night Mediterranean cruise that departed out of Barcelona, but before boarding, we planned a one-night stopover in Paris. With just 24 hours, we crammed in the tourist trifecta: Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and Notre Dame. Despite the whirlwind, something about Paris stuck with us—its walkability, its beauty, and its timeless charm. Even looking down from the Eiffel Tower, the city sprawled out like a storybook.

Paris is designed in 20 districts called arrondissements, spiraling out from the historic center on Île de la Cité. Each one has its own vibe—its own flavor. We barely scratched the surface that first visit, but we left knowing we’d return.

[Music Transition #2: upbeat travel groove]

Fast forward to Christmas 2019. We finally returned. This time, we had four nights and planned every detail ourselves—tours, restaurants, and even a dinner cruise on the Seine for our final night. But like any good Paris story, there was a twist: a transit strike had just begun. Subways were closed, buses were unavailable, and getting a taxi wasn’t always easy. Thankfully, we love to walk—and Paris is a city made for walking. It slowed us down in the best way, giving us time to notice the little things: shop windows dressed for the holidays, cafés bustling with locals, and neighborhoods revealing their unique character at every turn.

Business class flights from New York to Paris? Expensive. But that’s when we discovered La Compagnie, an all-business-class French airline flying from Newark to Orly. The price was right, and for a boutique airline, the experience was pretty impressive. Their planes are Airbus A321neos, outfitted with about 76 lie-flat seats in a sleek, quiet cabin. There’s no first class, no economy—just business. While there wasn’t a lounge at the airport, we were given vouchers to use at the terminal, which was a quirky but appreciated perk. The food onboard? As you'd expect from a French airline—top-notch. Wines were well-chosen, and the crew was warm and professional. The seats offered comfort, even if privacy was minimal. For the price compared to major airlines' business class, La Compagnie hit that sweet spot between value and comfort. Here’s a tip: always compare booking directly with the airline versus using third-party sites. Sometimes direct is cheaper and comes with better customer service.

Next up: the hotel. After reviewing hundreds of listings, we picked Hotel Le Bourdonnais in the 7th Arrondissement—home to the Eiffel Tower and walkable to most landmarks. The hotel is part of the Inwood group, but still retains a boutique, independent feel. It’s just a few doors down from a small grocery store, which would turn out to be very convenient.

We had booked an Executive King room with an Eiffel Tower view, and when Julien – front desk manager checked us in, we were thrilled to see it was everything we hoped for. Located on the top floor, the room had a cozy, artistic feel with slanted ceilings and large windows that opened onto a narrow balcony. We could lean out just enough to see the Eiffel Tower in all its shimmering glory. After a quick nap to shake off the jet lag, we wandered over to a nearby grocery store and picked up charcuterie and a bottle of wine—our pre-dinner ritual in Paris.

Julien had already proven himself an exceptional host before we even arrived, recommending restaurants and answering all our pre-trip questions. Thanks to his suggestions, we booked dinner at Le Florimond just around the corner. We also made reservations at Fermin Le Barbier—a favorite of a friend—and Le Colimacon in the 4th Arrondissement.

[Music Transition #3: subtle string interlude for elegance]

Dinner at Le Florimond? Outstanding. Laurent welcomed us like family, and the food—including the best millefeuille I’ve ever had—was unforgettable. The restaurant was cozy, always full, and felt like the kind of place where locals and travelers alike gathered for a memorable meal. We were so glad we booked early because every table was taken the entire time we were there. Laurent ran the dining room with effortless grace, helped us pick a perfect wine, and made us feel completely at home. To this day, Laurent still sends us a Christmas card.

Museums? Yes. We booked private tours through Babylon Tours. Our first was the Musée d’Orsay with a guide named Taylor—an art history PhD candidate originally from Arizona. She was approachable, funny, and immediately asked us about our interests. When we admitted we knew little about art history, she smiled and said, 'Perfect. Then you’ll be honest.' Her tour wasn’t a dry lecture—it was a conversation. She skipped the usual commentary on artistic 'intent' and instead made us look, really look, at the pieces in front of us. She asked what we saw, what we felt, and how works related to each other across time and style. Taylor's knowledge was deep, but her delivery was accessible and captivating. We peppered her with questions, and she answered each one in clear, engaging language. We left the museum energized and even more curious about art. We loved it.

We also explored the Louvre with Taylor. If you’ve ever been, you know it’s massive. Without a guide, you could easily wander aimlessly. But with Taylor at the helm, we hit the highlights: the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, Winged Victory, and so many others. She led us on a journey through time and helped us understand how each piece fit into a larger narrative. The next day we had booked a private tour to Versailles through Normandy Melody. Our guide, Anna, met us on a rainy December morning and instantly won us over. She called Louis XIV 'Lulu' and had us chuckling within the first five minutes. But beneath her humor was an encyclopedic knowledge of the palace’s history and architecture. From the Hall of Mirrors to Marie Antoinette’s private retreat, Anna brought Versailles to life. The Trianons and the Queen’s farm were particularly moving. We got a deeper sense of who these historic figures were—and why their choices still echo today. The entire experience was magical, thanks to Anna’s charm and insight.

You might be wondering—why do we often book private tours? Is it really worth it compared to semi-private or group tours? In our experience, the answer is a definite yes. With a private tour, the guide is focused solely on you. They can tailor the experience to your interests, go at your pace, and dive deeper into the topics that matter most to you. You’re free to ask questions anytime and have a more meaningful, two-way conversation with your guide, which often leads to a richer, more rewarding experience.

Semi-private tours are a great option too, typically limited to around 8 to 12 people. But in a group that size, interests can vary, which sometimes pulls the focus in different directions. Group tours—often as large as 50 people—can offer a broad overview and good value, but they tend to be less personal. You might be wearing a headset to hear the guide, but asking questions or engaging in discussion can be a challenge.

So while private tours may cost a bit more, we’ve found the personal attention and customized experience to be well worth it.

To celebrate our final night in Paris, we decided to take a dinner cruise on the Seine. We knew it could go either way—an elegant, scenic experience or a long, uncomfortable tourist trap with nowhere to escape. Luckily, it was the former. The boat was beautifully appointed, the service warm and attentive, and the views of the city from the river were simply breathtaking. Seeing the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, and the Louvre lit up at night as we glided past them felt like watching Paris breathe under the stars.

The meal was surprisingly excellent—several thoughtful courses paired with good wine—and a light musical performance added a gentle ambiance to the evening. As we leaned back in our chairs and watched the city float by, it felt like the perfect final chapter to this return visit. A moment of quiet joy that stitched together everything we love about Paris: beauty, romance, and great food, all in one place.

[Music Transition #4: thoughtful, reflective piano notes]

Then came the return: Paris, 2021. This time, we brought along my sister Ginny, her husband Gary, and our friend Ned. It was exciting to revisit our favorite spots with people we love, and to watch them discover Paris for the first time.

We recreated much of the 2019 trip: same hotel, many of the same restaurants, and familiar faces. And yes—just like last time, there was a transit strike. We joked that walking is the Parisian Plan B, and we leaned into it. On our first day, we decided to walk from the hotel to the Arc de Triomphe. At home before the trip began, we’d made sure everyone knew there would be plenty of walking. But halfway there, Ginny asked how much farther we had to go. When I asked why, she said her feet were hurting. No wonder—she was wearing flat sandals instead of the sneakers she had packed. We still laugh about that today.

Taylor was once again our guide at the Musée d'Orsay and the Louvre, and she effortlessly adapted her tours to our group’s interests. She brought humor, warmth, and knowledge to every stop, and our group walked away feeling inspired and more connected to the art.

We also expanded our adventures. While Ginny, Gary, and Ned booked a private tour to Versailles—where they were captivated by the grandeur of the palace, the Hall of Mirrors, and stories of Marie Antoinette—Duncan and I decided to go off the beaten path. We visited the châteaux of Fontainebleau and Vaux-le-Vicomte.

Fontainebleau was magnificent—royal, elegant, and lived-in, with layers of history spanning centuries. It felt like a place where kings and queens had truly lived, not just showcased. Then we continued to Vaux-le-Vicomte, smaller and more intimate but no less enchanting. Its symmetrical gardens and refined interiors made it one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever visited. Unlike the grandeur of Versailles, Vaux-le-Vicomte had a peaceful, romantic atmosphere that made us feel like we’d stumbled into a secret.

It was the perfect way to experience another side of French history, away from the crowds, and gave us a chance to enjoy the countryside just beyond the city's edge.

Here’s a tip: Don’t be afraid to venture out beyond the borders of the place your visiting, especially if you have been there several times.  There’s always something unexpected to find just a short distance away.

The first two nights we returned to Le Florimond and Fermin Le Barbier respectively where Laurent and Gigi welcomed us like old friends. And as usual the meals were exceptional as was the service.

For our final day we decided to do something new and booked a private day trip to the Loire Valley with a local guide. It was an early start, but absolutely worth it.

Our first stop was Château de Chenonceau, known for its graceful arches stretching over the River Cher and its deep ties to some of France’s most influential women, including Catherine de’ Medici and Diane de Poitiers. The interiors were beautifully preserved, and the floral arrangements in every room were spectacular—like walking through a royal garden in full bloom.

Then it was on to Château de Chambord, one of the most architecturally dazzling buildings I’ve ever seen. The intricate rooftops, grand double-helix staircase, and sprawling grounds were breathtaking. And though it was pouring rain when we arrived, the skies parted just enough to let in some dramatic light as we walked the gardens.

The entire day was rich with history and stunning scenery, and our guide filled the drive between châteaux with stories and insights that brought everything to life. It was a long day, but it gave us yet another reason to love exploring beyond the Paris city limits.

And for our final night, we surprised the group with VIP seating at the very front of our dinner cruise boat. With unobstructed views of the glittering cityscape and the Eiffel Tower twinkling above, it was the perfect send-off. The kind of moment that leaves you speechless—and already planning your return.

We flew back home with wonderful memories and slightly sore feet, but it was totally worth it.

[Music Transition #5: romantic instrumental, building to a crescendo]

We returned again in 2023, this time after a serene barge cruise on the Canal du Midi with friends. Our visit to Paris was brief—just two nights—but filled with everything we loved about the city. Although Julien had moved on from Hotel Le Bourdonnais, the place still felt like home, right down to the familiar room with the slanted roof and Eiffel Tower view.

We didn’t overbook ourselves. Instead, we walked the city, soaking up its beauty and energy. No museum tours this time, just long strolls, window shopping, and soaking up the charm. Our friend Harry flew home the next morning, but our friends Fred and Roger stayed on with us for one more night. It was a gorgeous day, so we wandered without an itinerary, savoring the freedom.

That evening, we had dinner at Fermin Le Barbier. This time, we snagged an outdoor table with a perfect view of the Eiffel Tower. As the sun set and the Tower began to sparkle, I noticed Fred and Roger looking up again and again—completely captivated by the moment. The ambiance was magical: laughter drifting from nearby tables, soft music from a street performer down the block, and the glow of the Tower lighting up the evening.

The food, as always, was exceptional. Fred was especially eager to try the foie gras, a very French delicacy. He ordered it as an extra starter and insisted we all take a bite. When he tasted it, he didn’t say a word—just stared at his plate, eyes wide. Then he finally whispered, "That’s incredible." Roger, ever the dessert lover, was blown away by the house-made crème brûlée. He cracked the sugar top with theatrical flair and took a bite, then gave us a slow nod of approval and said, "That alone was worth the trip."

There’s something uniquely joyful about sharing a beloved place with friends and seeing them experience it for the first time. That night reminded us that no matter how many times you return to Paris, it always has the power to surprise—and to delight.

And now, as I record this, we’re preparing for yet another return this December. We’ll pass through Paris on our way to a river cruise, and we’ve already made dinner reservations at our usual haunts.

[Music Transition #6: soft fade-out with gentle piano and strings]

So, why return to the same city again and again? Why choose the same hotel, revisit the same restaurants, or seek out the same guides?

Because when a place captures your heart, it stops being just a destination—it becomes a part of your story. For us, Paris is that place. A city that feels like an old friend, always waiting to greet you with something new, even in the most familiar corners.

Traveling back doesn’t mean repeating the past. It means deepening it. Whether it's a bite of foie gras in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, a quiet walk through the Marais, or laughter shared with loved ones on a dinner cruise, each trip added a new layer to our love affair with Paris.

I hope this journey inspires you to return somewhere that’s already special to you—or to go back to a place that’s calling your name. Because sometimes the best travel discoveries aren’t in new places… but in new moments within places you already know.

Thanks for joining me on this audio postcard from Paris. I’d love to hear about the places you return to and why. Join me on the Explorations All Over Facebook page. Like, follow, or drop a review if this episode resonated with you.

Until next time, I’m Russ—and this is Explorations All Over. See you soon.

 

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