The Restful Record: Amsterdam, Netherlands

Welcome to The Restful Record, the podcast that gently guides you into a restful sleep with slow, soothing history. Tonight, we take a peaceful journey through the rich history of Amsterdam, Netherlands—from its humble beginnings as a fishing village to its rise as a vibrant trade hub and cultural capital.

Let your mind wander through the canals as we explore this enchanting city. With calming narration, soft background ambiance, and gentle breathwork, this episode is designed to ease your mind and help you drift off naturally.

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Podcast cover art image by Eric Nopanen.

Transcript

Welcome to tonight’s episode of The Restful Record. This season we take a gentle journey through time, exploring the stories of different cities around the world. Before we dive into tonight’s city, let's take a moment to relax. Close your eyes, settle into a comfortable position, and take a slow, deep breath in through your nose... hold for a moment... and then exhale slowly through your mouth. Let the weight of your day melt away as you breathe in calm and breathe out any tension. With each breath, feel yourself sinking deeper into relaxation. Now, as we drift through the history of tonight’s city, let the soothing rhythm of my voice guide you deep into relaxation.

 Thousands of years before it became a bustling metropolis, Amsterdam was a vast, swampy delta where rivers kissed the North Sea, a place where hunter-gatherers roamed, relying on the bounty of fishing, foraging, and hunting to survive. The land, inhospitable and drenched in marshes, held little promise for permanent settlements—until the resilience of its earliest inhabitants began to shape its future.

 Fast forward to the early Middle Ages, when small, determined communities began to carve out a foothold in this challenging environment. By the 10th century, farmers had started to build their homes on terps—which are man-made mounds designed to keep them above the rising waters. In this struggle against nature, the foundations of what we now know as Amsterdam were quietly taking shape. With fertile peat soil and an abundance of waterways, these early settlers found a way to thrive amidst the floods.

 The name "Amsterdam" first appears in records around 1275, when Count Floris V granted toll-free passage to locals who maintained a bridge and dam over the Amstel River. The dam served as a critical engineering solution, protecting the low-lying settlement from floods and enabling the reclamation of surrounding land. Over centuries, these flood plains were managed through a sophisticated network of canals and dikes, integral to the city's expansion and survival. The name "Amstelredamme," referring to the dam and its location on the Amstel River, gradually evolved into "Amsterdam," encapsulating the city's origins and its enduring relationship with water management.

 By the 14th century, the city began to thrive as trade blossomed. Amsterdam’s location offered access to key trade routes, making it a vital hub for commerce. Merchants traded herring, beer, textiles, and timber, linking the city to markets across Europe. Its economy boomed, and the city expanded rapidly, drawing in artisans, traders, and laborers seeking new opportunities.

 The 17th century marked Amsterdam’s Golden Age, a period of extraordinary wealth and cultural achievements. The Dutch East India Company, founded in 1602, played a pivotal role. 

 Known as the VOC in Dutch, it was the world’s first multinational corporation and one of the first to issue shares to the public. The company established trade routes spanning Asia, Africa, and the Americas, dealing in spices, silks, tea, and other valuable commodities. Amsterdam became the heart of this vast trading empire, with its port bustling with activity as ships set sail for distant lands.

 However, the VOC’s operations were deeply intertwined with the transatlantic slave trade. Enslaved individuals were forcibly taken from regions in West Africa, such as Ghana and Angola, and transported to colonies where they were exploited to produce goods like sugar and coffee. This system devastated African societies, stripping them of their populations and fracturing communities. Meanwhile, the Netherlands grew immensely wealthy, with Amsterdam’s merchant class reaping the profits. The port of Amsterdam became a central hub for processing and distributing these goods, further cementing the city’s economic dominance during its Golden Age.

 The VOC’s voyages were fraught with challenges and adventure. Sailors often faced treacherous seas, unpredictable weather, and the constant threat of piracy. One notable story involves the Batavia, a VOC ship that wrecked off the coast of Australia in 1629. The survivors endured mutiny, murder, and starvation before rescue arrived, a tale that remains one of the most infamous episodes in maritime history. Despite such perils, the VOC’s operations brought immense wealth to Amsterdam, fueling its cultural and architectural growth.

 During this era, Amsterdam’s iconic canal ring was constructed. Designed as a practical solution for transportation and drainage, the canals also served as an elegant backdrop for the mansions of wealthy merchants. Artists like Rembrandt van Rijn and Johannes Vermeer flourished, creating masterpieces that captured the spirit of the age. Another figure closely associated with Dutch art, Vincent van Gogh, though born in the south of the Netherlands, left an indelible mark on Amsterdam. While he never lived there permanently, the city is home to the Van Gogh Museum, which houses the largest collection of his works, offering a deep dive into his tumultuous life and groundbreaking artistry. Van Gogh’s post-Impressionist style, vibrant use of color, and emotional intensity revolutionized the art world, and his legacy draws millions to Amsterdam each year.

 Meanwhile, the city became a haven for intellectuals, religious minorities, and refugees seeking tolerance and freedom. During the 18th century, Amsterdam, once a thriving hub of trade and wealth, faced a period of economic decline. The Dutch Republic, heavily reliant on its maritime dominance, began to falter as rival nations like Britain and France expanded their own trading empires. Wars, such as the War of the Spanish Succession and later conflicts, drained resources and disrupted commerce. Meanwhile, shifting trade routes and the rise of other ports diminished Amsterdam’s role as Europe’s primary economic center. The city’s golden age of prosperity gave way to financial struggles, leaving its famed canals and mansions as relics of a more affluent past.

 The 19th century brought sweeping changes as Amsterdam transitioned from stagnation to renewal. Following Napoleon’s invasion and the establishment of the Batavian Republic, the Netherlands became part of the French Empire. The restoration of Dutch independence in 1815 under the Kingdom of the Netherlands ushered in a new era. The Industrial Revolution began to influence the city, introducing railways, steamships, and modern industries. Infrastructure projects, such as the North Sea Canal, completed in 1876, reconnected Amsterdam to global trade routes, helping to revive its economy and position it as a key European port once more.

 Social transformations also defined this era. Urbanization expanded as people moved to the city for industrial jobs, leading to a rise in population and diverse cultural influences. However, this rapid growth came with challenges, including overcrowding and poor living conditions for many residents. Reform movements emerged to address these issues, spurring efforts to improve housing, sanitation, and public health. By the late 19th century, Amsterdam had begun to embrace its dual identity as both a historic city with a rich heritage and a modern urban center poised for the future.

 From the late 1800s until World War II, Amsterdam underwent significant transformation, emerging as a modern European capital while navigating political and economic shifts. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the city experienced rapid industrialization, expanding its canal network and public transportation systems. New neighborhoods, such as De Pijp and the Amsterdam School architectural movement, reshaped the urban landscape with innovative housing and social projects. The city's Jewish community thrived, contributing to commerce, arts, and culture, while institutions like the Rijksmuseum and Concertgebouw cemented Amsterdam’s reputation as a center of cultural excellence. However, the Great Depression of the 1930s brought economic hardship, with unemployment and social unrest rising as the decade progressed.

As tensions escalated in Europe, Amsterdam’s fate became intertwined with the onset of World War II.  World War II brought profound tragedy to Amsterdam, transforming the city under the oppressive grip of Nazi occupation. Following Germany’s invasion in May 1940, the city’s Jewish population—which had flourished for centuries—faced systematic persecution. Anti-Jewish decrees stripped people of their rights, livelihoods, and eventually their lives. Many were forced into hiding, while others were sent to Westerbork transit camp and ultimately to extermination camps such as Auschwitz and Sobibor. Resistance movements arose, but the brutal crackdowns made survival exceedingly difficult.

 Anne Frank, a young Jewish girl, became one of the most well-known victims of this horrific era. In 1942, Anne, her family, and four others went into hiding in a concealed annex behind her father’s business on the Prinsengracht street, in central Amsterdam. For over two years, they lived in constant fear of discovery, with Anne chronicling in her journals, their experiences, hopes, and the atrocities occurring outside their refuge. Tragically, the group was betrayed in 1944 and deported. Anne perished in Bergen-Belsen concentration camp, but her diary survived, becoming a symbol of resilience and a haunting reminder of the Holocaust’s toll.

 Over 75% of Amsterdam’s Jewish residents—amounting to more than 60,000 individuals—were deported and murdered during the Holocaust, leaving an indelible scar on the city’s identity. The Jewish Quarter, once a vibrant community, was left decimated. Post-war efforts to rebuild Jewish life in Amsterdam were met with immense challenges, but the city’s memorials, museums, and continued recognition of this dark period ensure that the lessons of history are not forgotten.

 Post-war Amsterdam saw extensive rebuilding and modernization. The city embraced progressive values and became a symbol of counterculture during the 1960s and 70s. Movements advocating for LGBTQ+ rights, environmental protection, and social equality found fertile ground here. The city’s liberal policies, including the regulation of cannabis and legal recognition of same-sex marriage, further bolstered its reputation as a beacon of tolerance.

 Amsterdam’s liberal policies extend beyond social issues and include the regulation of recreational drugs, contributing to the city’s complex relationship with the drug trade. The Netherlands has long been a hub for MDMA production, with Amsterdam playing a central role in the global ecstasy market. Laboratories hidden in rural areas produce the drug, which is trafficked through the city’s port and distributed worldwide. Cocaine also passes through Amsterdam, smuggled in vast quantities from South America. While the city’s tolerant stance toward cannabis and the operation of “coffee shops” is often highlighted, the darker side of the drug trade includes the activities of organized crime groups.

 In recent years, gang violence linked to the drug trade has shocked the nation. High-profile murders, including the assassination of journalist Peter R. de Vries in 2021, have highlighted the brutality of criminal networks operating in and around Amsterdam. These groups fight for control over lucrative drug routes, leaving authorities to grapple with the challenge of maintaining the city’s image as a safe and progressive destination while addressing the deep-rooted issues of organized crime. Despite these challenges, Amsterdam remains resilient, balancing its storied history and vibrant present against the complexities of modern urban life.

 Amsterdam’s relationship with prostitution is as old as the city itself. For centuries, the trade thrived in the bustling port, where sailors and merchants sought entertainment after long voyages. By the 1600s, the infamous Red Light District had already taken shape, tucked among the city’s winding canals. Unlike many other European cities, Amsterdam never fully outlawed sex work but instead oscillated between tolerance and regulation. By the late 19th century, moral reform movements pushed for stricter oversight, leading to government attempts to control brothels and reduce exploitation. However, prohibitionist measures only drove the industry underground, making conditions more dangerous for workers.

 It's just just drugs which the Netherlands has been liberal with - the country has an interesting and tolerant stance to prostitution as well. The modern legal framework for prostitution in the Netherlands took shape in 2000 when the government lifted a century-old ban on brothels, aiming to decriminalize and regulate the industry. The goal was harm reduction—ensuring sex workers had rights, access to health services, and safer working conditions. Today, registered prostitutes operate legally in designated areas, renting window spaces and working under strict guidelines. However, challenges persist, including concerns over human trafficking and illegal exploitation. Over the years, Amsterdam has tightened regulations, limiting licenses and pushing for more oversight. Despite these complexities, the city remains one of the few places in the world where sex work is both legal and openly acknowledged as part of urban life, woven into the fabric of Amsterdam’s progressive identity.

 In addition to the culture of tolerance, Amsterdam has a unique food culture, known throughout the world. While it may not be considered the best food, it certinly has it's own culinary style. . Dutch staples such as herring, stroopwafels, and cheese have long been emblematic of the Netherlands. Herring, often served raw with onions, has been a street food favorite for centuries, reflecting the city’s connection to maritime trade. Cheese markets, with Gouda and Edam taking center stage, highlight the importance of dairy farming to the country’s economy. Stroopwafels, thin waffle cookies filled with caramel, originated in the 18th century and remain a beloved treat.

 In modern times, Amsterdam’s food scene has embraced its multicultural population, with Indonesian cuisine standing out as a testament to the Netherlands’ colonial past. Dishes like rijsttafel—a banquet of small, flavorful plates—are popular among locals and visitors alike. Craft breweries and distilleries also thrive, offering innovative takes on beverages like gin, known locally as jenever, which dates back to the 16th century. Today, the city balances traditional foods with contemporary dining experiences, from Michelin-starred restaurants to bustling street markets.

 And then there’s the bike culture—Amsterdam’s signature. It wasn’t always this way, but in the 1970s, a movement for safer streets and a greener environment transformed the city into one of the most bike-friendly places in the world. With bike paths crisscrossing every corner, cyclists are the lifeblood of Amsterdam, weaving through the streets with remarkable ease and trust in the city's commitment to safety.

 As we wrap up today's journey through Amsterdam, it’s clear that this city is a fascinating blend of history and innovation, where the past and present dance in harmony. With over 800,000 residents and millions of visitors each year, Amsterdam thrives on its historic charm and modern energy. Iconic sites like the Anne Frank House, Van Gogh Museum, and vibrant neighborhoods like Jordaan and De Pijp showcase the city’s dynamic spirit. 

 From its beginnings in the marshy delta to becoming a global powerhouse, Amsterdam has never stopped evolving. Its canals, bridges, and cobblestone streets not only preserve the city’s rich history but also guide it toward a bright, promising future. This city’s story is a testament to resilience and adaptability—a place where the old and the new create a unique sense of community, connection, and possibility.