The Restful Record: Freetown, Sierra Leone

Welcome to The Restful Record, the sleep and relaxation podcast. This season I guide you through the rich histories of different cities around the world—slowly and soothingly, to help you unwind and drift into rest or a deep sleep.

Tonight, we journey to Freetown, Sierra Leone, a city with a remarkable past. From its founding as a settlement for freed African Americans and formerly enslaved people in the 18th century to its role hosting one of West Africa’s top universities, and its decade long civil war, Freetown’s story is one of resilience, culture, and deep historical significance.

This episode features: A calming introduction with breathwork to ease your mind, a slow, gentle narration of Freetown’s history, and soft background ambiance for ultimate relaxation.

Close your eyes, take a deep breath, and let’s travel through time together.

💤 Don’t forget to like, subscribe, and hit the notification bell if you enjoy this content! It helps support the podcast and brings more peaceful episodes your way.

Podcast cover art image by Eric Nopanen.

Transcript

Welcome to tonight’s episode of The Restful Record.

Before beginning, I'd like to let you know that today's episode contains disturbing stories of war, including acts of a violent nature. If this is upsetting to you, I would suggest skipping ahead to another episode. 

This season  we take a gentle journey through time, exploring the stories of different cities around the world. Before we dive into tonight’s city, let's take a moment to relax. Close your eyes, settle into a comfortable position, and take a slow, deep breath in through your nose... hold for a moment... and then exhale slowly through your mouth. Let the weight of your day melt away as you breathe in calm and breathe out any tension. With each breath, feel yourself sinking deeper into relaxation. Now, as we drift through the history of tonight’s city, let the soothing rhythm of my voice guide you into a peaceful slumber.

Today we unravel the remarkable story of Freetown, Sierra Leone—a city that emerged from the ashes of slavery to become a beacon of hope. Imagine the year 1787: the Atlantic Ocean’s waves lapping against a lush, green coastline, as a group of weary but determined individuals step off a ship. These are the Black Poor of London, freed slaves, and struggling free people of color, who have made the perilous journey to West Africa. Many of them are sick, malnourished, and disillusioned after years of hardship in Britain. Yet, they carry with them an unyielding hope: the dream of a fresh start, a place where they can be free not just in name, but in reality.

Their arrival was spearheaded by the efforts of British abolitionists, who saw Sierra Leone as a unique experiment in freedom and redemption. Among them was Granville Sharp, a fervent campaigner against slavery, who envisioned this settlement as a sanctuary for former slaves. 

 Long before their arrival, the region was home to the Temne people, along with other ethnic groups like the Mende and the Sherbro, who had well-established societies and trade networks. The founding of Freetown was not without struggle—early settlers faced resistance from local leaders who were wary of losing control over trade, particularly the lucrative slave trade, which was still active in the region. And Many of the original settlers—known as the "Black Poor" settlers—succumbed to the harsh conditions, and their dream seemed on the verge of collapse.

 In 1792, a second wave of settlers arrived, bringing renewed energy and determination. This group, known as the Nova Scotians, were Black Loyalists—former slaves who had been freed for supporting the British during the American Revolution. These 1,200 men, women, and children had endured betrayal and broken promises in Nova Scotia, where they were relegated to harsh winters and systemic discrimination. Led by Thomas Peters, an imposing and charismatic leader, they lobbied tirelessly for a new home, eventually making their way to Sierra Leone. Upon their arrival, they brought not just their hopes and dreams, but their skills, music, and a deep sense of faith that would help shape the culture of Freetown.

These settlers established a robust and organized community, laying the foundations of what would become a thriving city. They introduced a grid system for streets, constructed churches, and established schools. They named the settlement “Freetown” to reflect its founding purpose—a city where freedom reigned supreme. Yet, even within this sanctuary, challenges persisted. Relations with the British colonial authorities were often strained, as the settlers demanded autonomy and the ability to govern their own affairs. These tensions mirrored the broader struggles of the African diaspora—a fight not just for freedom from slavery, but for true self-determination.

In 1808  Freetown transformed  into a Crown Colony formalized in British control, ostensibly to protect these freed people and secure the colony as a stronghold for abolitionist ideals. But this wasn’t just about governance; it was about the lives of real people—like William Wilberforce Daniels, a young man who arrived on a captured slave ship. He later recounted how stepping onto Freetown's soil felt like being "born a second time."

 Yet, the transition was far from seamless. The Crown Colony status brought with it an influx of British administrators and soldiers, and with them came new challenges. Traditional African leadership structures clashed with British colonial policies, creating tensions within the community. Despite this, Freetown became a center of resilience and education. 

 By 1827, Fourah Bay College was established by the Church Missionary Society. It was the first Western-style university in sub-Saharan Africa, created with the vision of training African clergy and educators. The college began as a modest institution but quickly gained recognition as a hub for intellectual and theological advancement. Its founding marked a pivotal shift in the region, where formal education was often limited to colonial elites. For the residents of Freetown, Fourah Bay College became a source of pride and opportunity. It nurtured a generation of scholars and leaders who would go on to challenge colonial structures, advocate for social reforms, and contribute to the cultural and intellectual flourishing of Sierra Leone.

 The influence of Fourah Bay College extended far beyond the borders of Freetown and Sierra Leone. It became a magnet for students across West Africa, earning the nickname "the Athens of West Africa." Graduates of the college played critical roles in the Pan-African movement, the fight for independence, and the development of post-colonial African societies. Many of its alumni became prominent educators, writers, and political leaders, shaping the trajectory of nations throughout the continent. By providing Africans with access to higher education in a time when such opportunities were scarce, Fourah Bay College symbolized the potential of African intellect and resilience, leaving an enduring legacy that continues to inspire generations.

 Twenty years after the founding of this seminal college, in 1841,  a dramatic revolt unfolded—a moment in history that reverberates as a powerful testament to the human spirit's unyielding fight for freedom.  Many of the individuals in Freetown, who had been uprooted from their homelands, were subjected to a new form of exploitation, coerced into apprenticeship systems that bore striking similarities to the bondage they had escaped. The promise of freedom, tainted by the reality of control, sparked frustration and resistance among the liberated Africans.

 In the revolt of 1841, the unrest reached a boiling point. Liberated Africans, angered by oppressive labor conditions and the lack of genuine autonomy, rose up in defiance. Their actions were not just a protest against unfair treatment—they were a declaration of their humanity and a demand for the justice they had been promised. The uprising highlighted the contradictions of British colonial policy, which claimed to champion abolition while perpetuating systems of exploitation. Though the revolt was ultimately suppressed, it sent a resounding message, challenging the moral authority of the colonial administration and galvanizing the fight for true freedom. 

 Fifty years later, in 1898, Sierra Leone erupted into defiance with the Hut Tax War, a powerful act of resistance against British colonial rule. Sparked by the British-imposed tax on dwellings, the war was more than a refusal to pay—it was a rebellion against exploitation, the erosion of sovereignty, and the imposition of foreign control over local traditions. Led by dynamic figures like Bai Bureh, a warrior and ruler who became a symbol of defiance, the uprising united chiefs and communities across the protectorate in a fierce struggle against colonial forces. Although the British ultimately quashed the rebellion with superior firepower, the Hut Tax War remains a vivid chapter in the fight for justice and self-determination in West Africa, echoing the resilience of those who dared to challenge the might of an empire.

 In 1961, Sierra Leone made history by stepping out of the shadows of colonial rule and into the light of independence. For over 150 years, this West African nation had been a British colony, its resources fueling the British Empire while its people fought tirelessly to reclaim their autonomy. The journey to independence was not an overnight feat but the result of decades of grassroots activism, political negotiations, and the steadfast determination of its leaders. Central figures like Milton Margai played pivotal roles in uniting a diverse population under the shared vision of self-rule. On April 27, 1961, their perseverance paid off, as Sierra Leone proudly raised its green, white, and blue flag for the first time, symbolizing hope, unity, and freedom.

 But independence came with its own set of challenges. Sierra Leone inherited a nation marked by inequalities and regional divides, legacies of its colonial past. Yet, the spirit of the people remained unshaken. The day of independence was celebrated with jubilant parades, music, and a sense of renewed purpose. It was more than just a political transition; it was a declaration to the world that Sierra Leone was ready to chart its own destiny. This pivotal moment not only set the stage for the country's journey toward self-governance but also inspired other African nations in their own struggles for liberation, marking Sierra Leone as a beacon of hope in the broader narrative of decolonization.

 Following its independence from Britain in 1961, Freetown, the capital of Sierra Leone, remained the country's political and economic center, but the decades leading up to the civil war were marked by increasing instability. Under the leadership of Prime Minister Sir Milton Margai, Sierra Leone initially enjoyed relative stability, but after his death in 1964, political tensions grew. His successor and half-brother, Albert Margai, faced opposition due to allegations of corruption and authoritarianism. A military coup in 1967 briefly unseated the civilian government, leading to a period of unrest before Siaka Stevens, leader of the All People's Congress (APC), took power in 1968. Stevens consolidated control, declaring Sierra Leone a one-party state in 1978 and ruling through a mix of patronage and repression. Freetown, once a symbol of freed African settlement, became a city marked by economic decline, growing inequality, and political violence. Corruption and mismanagement led to widespread poverty, despite the country’s rich diamond resources, which were increasingly smuggled abroad. By the late 1980s, under Stevens' successor, Joseph Momoh, the government was struggling with economic collapse, rising discontent, and an erosion of state authority—conditions that would soon ignite the brutal civil war.

 The Sierra Leone Civil War, which raged from 1991 to 2002, was one of the most brutal conflicts in modern African history, leaving an indelible mark on the nation and its people. It all began when the Revolutionary United Front (RUF), a rebel group led by Foday Sankoh, launched an insurgency against the government. The war was fueled by a deadly combination of corruption, disenfranchisement, and the lure of Sierra Leone’s abundant diamond reserves. These "blood diamonds" became the lifeblood of the conflict, funding the RUF’s campaign of terror. For ordinary Sierra Leoneans, life became a harrowing struggle for survival. Villages were raided, families torn apart, and countless lives destroyed. A survivor named Aminata vividly recalled the day rebels stormed her town, forcing children to become soldiers or face unspeakable violence. She hid in the forest for weeks, unsure if her family was alive.

 At the heart of the RUF’s strategy was the use of terror to instill fear and maintain control. Stories of their atrocities are chilling: widespread amputations of men, women, and children; mass abductions; and the deliberate targeting of civilians. One haunting account came from a young boy named Ibrahim, who was forcibly recruited into the RUF at just 12 years old. Given an AK-47 and desensitized through drugs and violence, he was ordered to commit acts he could barely comprehend. Years later, he spoke of the deep scars—both physical and emotional—that remained. Ibrahim’s story is a microcosm of the broader devastation, where an entire generation was traumatized, and the bonds of community were shredded by fear and mistrust.

 Amidst the horror, however, there were glimpses of resilience and courage. Local and international efforts sought to bring peace, culminating in the intervention of the United Nations and the British military in the late 1990s. A pivotal moment came when the capital, Freetown, was nearly overrun by rebels in 1999. Sierra Leonean civilians and peacekeepers alike showed incredible bravery in resisting the RUF’s advance. A woman named Kadiatu shared how she helped organize secret networks to smuggle children out of conflict zones to safety. Her actions exemplified the determination of ordinary citizens to protect their loved ones, even in the face of overwhelming danger.

 The war finally ended in 2002, with the intervention of international forces and the establishment of a peace agreement. The Truth and Reconciliation Commission later worked to uncover the atrocities committed and foster healing. While the scars of the war remain, Sierra Leoneans have shown remarkable resilience. Aminata, who once hid in the forest to escape violence, now works as a counselor for young people, helping them rebuild their lives. The civil war serves as a stark reminder of the devastating human cost of greed and power, but also of the strength of the human spirit in the face of unimaginable adversity. For Sierra Leone, the journey toward recovery continues, guided by the lessons of its past.

 By 2002, the war had officially ended, and efforts to rebuild the city’s infrastructure, economy, and governance were underway. With assistance from international organizations, Freetown saw improvements in security, education, and healthcare, though challenges remained. The city became a hub for post-war reconciliation, hosting tribunals for war crimes and reintegration programs for former child soldiers. However, in 2014, Freetown faced another crisis—the Ebola outbreak, which hit Sierra Leone hard.

 The first cases of Ebola in Sierra Leone were confirmed in May 2014 in the eastern district of Kailahun, near the border with Guinea. The virus had already been spreading in Guinea and Liberia, but when it reached Sierra Leone, it rapidly escalated into a nationwide crisis. One of the earliest known cases was a traditional healer who had been treating patients from Guinea. When she died, mourners at her funeral became infected, fueling the outbreak. Ebola is a hemorrhagic fever that causes severe symptoms, including high fever, vomiting, diarrhea, and internal and external bleeding. It attacks the immune system and vital organs, often leading to multi-organ failure. The mortality rate of Ebola varies depending on the strain and medical intervention, but during the West African outbreak, the death rate in Sierra Leone was around 40 to 60 percent. Survivors often suffered long-term effects, such as joint pain, vision problems, and psychological trauma.

 The stigma surrounding Ebola was immense, with survivors often shunned by their communities and even medical staff facing threats and violence from fearful residents. Many believed the disease was a curse or a government conspiracy, leading some to hide symptoms or avoid treatment. Healthcare workers faced extreme risks despite stringent precautions, including full-body protective suits, gloves, and goggles. Tragically, many frontline workers, including doctors and nurses, succumbed to the virus, further straining the fragile healthcare system. The outbreak overwhelmed Sierra Leone’s medical infrastructure, forcing the international community to intervene. Organizations like Médecins Sans Frontières (Doctors Without Borders) and the World Health Organization set up treatment centers and worked to contain the virus. The epidemic not only devastated families and communities but also exposed major gaps in global health preparedness, prompting reforms in disease surveillance and emergency response worldwide.

 The epidemic swept through the region with alarming speed, overwhelming healthcare systems and devastating communities. Freetown, as the country’s largest and most densely populated urban center, became a hotspot for the virus. Markets and crowded neighborhoods provided the perfect conditions for Ebola to spread, turning everyday interactions into potential threats. Fear gripped the city as the death toll climbed, and families faced heart-wrenching decisions—isolating loved ones who exhibited symptoms meant choosing between the chance of survival and saying a final goodbye. The streets once bustling with life grew quieter under the shadow of quarantines, while hospitals and clinics struggled to manage the overwhelming influx of patients.

 The people of Freetown displayed extraordinary resilience in the face of this crisis. Community leaders, health workers, and volunteers took enormous risks, tirelessly working to educate residents about the virus and enforce preventive measures like handwashing stations and contact tracing. Despite the challenges, these efforts slowly turned the tide, aided by international support and the heroic work of local healthcare providers. Burial teams, often ostracized for their work, became unsung heroes as they ensured that those who had passed were laid to rest safely and respectfully. By the end of 2015, the outbreak had begun to subside, but the scars it left behind were profound. In Freetown, the epidemic was not just a health crisis; it was a test of humanity, resilience, and the ability of a community to come together in its darkest hour.

 Since 2016, Sierra Leone, particularly its capital Freetown, has faced significant challenges and milestones. In August 2017, Freetown experienced devastating mudslides following heavy rainfall, resulting in over 1,000 fatalities and leaving more than 3,000 people homeless. This tragedy highlighted issues such as deforestation and unregulated urban development. In April 2024, Sierra Leone marked its 63rd year of independence, prompting reflections on the nation's progress and ongoing dependence in various sectors. Despite these challenges, the resilience of Sierra Leoneans remains evident, with a collective determination to overcome adversity and strive for a more prosperous future.

 Freetown today stands as a vibrant testament to resilience and cultural diversity. From its origins as a sanctuary for freed enslaved people to its current role as Sierra Leone's bustling capital, the city embodies the enduring spirit of its people. The streets pulse with life, from the colorful markets where traders haggle over fresh produce and crafts, to the beaches that draw locals and tourists alike with their breathtaking views. Historic landmarks like the Cotton Tree and the Old Fourah Bay College remain symbols of the city’s rich heritage, serving as reminders of Freetown's pivotal role in the fight against slavery and its contributions to education and African independence movements. Despite challenges like rapid urbanization, unemployment, and the lasting scars of the civil war, Freetown continues to grow and adapt, showing that its spirit remains as steadfast as the settlers who founded it centuries ago.

 As we conclude this journey through Freetown’s history and present, it's clear that this city is more than its past; it’s a living, breathing entity that continues to evolve. Its people, a blend of different ethnicities and traditions, weave together a cultural tapestry that is both unique and inspiring. Freetown serves as a reminder of the strength found in unity and the importance of remembering where we come from to guide where we’re headed. Whether you visit to explore its history, immerse yourself in its culture, or simply take in its natural beauty, Freetown offers an unforgettable experience that reflects the heart and soul of Sierra Leone. Thank you for joining us on this journey, and until next time, let the story of Freetown inspire you to discover the untold histories in every corner of our world.