The Restful Record: Havana, Cuba

Welcome to The Restful Record, the sleep and relaxation podcast designed to help you unwind with slow history and soothing storytelling. In this episode, we take a gentle journey through the rich and vibrant history of Havana, Cuba. Let your mind drift as we explore Havana’s colonial past, its role in trade and exploration, and its fraught relationship with the U.S. 

With calming narration and a peaceful pace, this episode is crafted to ease you into deep relaxation or restful sleep. 

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Podcast cover art image by Eric Nopanen.

Transcript

Welcome to tonight’s episode of The Restful Record. Whether you're here for relaxation, to de-stress, or to help you fall into a deep sleep, we welcome you. This season we take a gentle journey through time, exploring the stories of different cities around the world. Before we dive into tonight’s city, let's take a moment to relax. Close your eyes, settle into a comfortable position, and take a slow, deep breath in through your nose... hold for a moment... and then exhale slowly through your mouth. Let the weight of your day melt away as you breathe in calm and breathe out any tension. With each breath, feel yourself sinking deeper into relaxation. Now, as we drift through the history of tonight’s city, let the soothing rhythm of my voice guide you deep into relaxation.

Tonight we take a journey through the rich and storied past of Havana, Cuba—a city shaped by exploration, conquest, and resilience. As you settle in and relax, imagine the warm Caribbean breeze drifting through the air, carrying the echoes of centuries past. Havana’s history is one of strategic importance, cultural fusion, and enduring legacy, beginning with its official foundation on August 25, 1519. Spanish conquistador Diego Velázquez chose this northern coastal location not just for its beauty but for its potential as a thriving port. Over time, Havana would become a crucial hub for trade between Spain and the Americas, its harbors bustling with ships carrying treasures, goods, and people across the Atlantic. 

But with great wealth came great danger. As Havana grew into a vital port city, it also became a tempting target for pirates and rival powers seeking to plunder its riches. To defend its shores, the Spanish crown commissioned the construction of Castillo del Morro in 1589—a mighty fortress guarding the entrance to the harbor. With its towering walls and commanding presence, the fortress served as both a deterrent and a last line of defense against maritime threats. Even today, Castillo del Morro stands as an enduring symbol of Havana’s resilience, its silhouette a reminder of the city’s ability to withstand the tests of time. 

As Havana flourished in trade and commerce, its influence in the Spanish colonies became undeniable. By 1607, the city was officially named the capital of Cuba, a title that cemented its status as the island’s political and economic center. The shift was more than just symbolic—it placed Havana at the heart of decision-making, diplomacy, and governance. The city’s bustling port saw fleets of ships arriving and departing, carrying goods, people, and ideas that would shape the colony’s future. Havana’s streets soon filled with grand architecture, vibrant markets, and a population that reflected a blend of cultures, from Spanish settlers to African slaves who brought their traditions and resilience to the island.

As Havana grew in wealth and power after becoming Cuba’s capital in 1607, so too did the forces that shaped its society. The city became a crucial hub in the transatlantic slave trade, with thousands of enslaved Africans brought to its shores to work on sugar and tobacco plantations. These plantations fueled Havana’s economy, making Cuba one of the world’s largest sugar producers by the 18th century. The brutal conditions endured by enslaved people were unimaginable—long hours under the scorching sun, harsh punishments, and little hope for freedom. Yet, despite these hardships, African traditions, music, and religion took root in Cuban culture, forever shaping Havana’s identity.

Havana’s strategic location made it a prime target for pirates and rival nations eager to seize its riches. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, French, Dutch, and English pirates raided the city, seeking gold, silver, and supplies. In one of the most infamous attacks, the British captured Havana in 1762, holding it for nearly a year before returning it to Spain in exchange for Florida. The occupation left a lasting impact—British rule introduced free trade policies that boosted Havana’s economy, and when the Spanish regained control, they took measures to fortify the city, constructing the immense walls that can still be seen in Old Havana today.

By the early 19th century, Havana was a thriving metropolis, its fortunes closely tied to the United States. American merchants and investors saw the city as a gateway to Caribbean trade, and the U.S. became Cuba’s primary trading partner. But prosperity also came with hardship. Yellow fever and other epidemics swept through Havana, fueled by the city’s humid climate and unsanitary conditions. One particularly deadly outbreak in 1793 killed thousands, prompting efforts to improve public health and sanitation. 

Havana would again find itself at the center of history, this time during the Spanish-American War in 1898. The city became a battleground in the struggle between Spain and the rising power of the United States. After Spain’s defeat, Cuba fell under U.S. control, with Havana occupied by American forces. The shift marked the beginning of a complex relationship between the two nations—one that would shape Havana’s future in ways both beneficial and tumultuous. While some welcomed modernization and investment from the U.S., others saw it as another form of colonial rule. In the decades that followed, Havana transformed into a city of glamour and conflict, a place where American businesses, mobsters, and revolutionaries all played a role in shaping its destiny.

By the time Fidel Castro and his revolutionary forces marched into Havana on January 1, 1959, Cuba had already endured years of unrest under the dictatorship of Fulgencio Batista. Batista, who had once been a populist leader, had turned into an authoritarian ruler, aligning himself with American business interests while suppressing opposition through violence and corruption. Fidel Castro, a young lawyer from a wealthy family, became disillusioned with Cuba’s inequality and U.S. influence over its economy. Inspired by anti-imperialist ideals, he led a small group of rebels, including the Argentine-born doctor-turned-revolutionary, Che Guevara. Guevara, deeply committed to Marxist ideology, saw Cuba as the first step in a broader movement to challenge U.S. dominance in Latin America.

Together, Castro and Guevara fought for a socialist revolution that would redistribute wealth, nationalize industries, and end foreign control over Cuba’s economy. After years of guerrilla warfare in the mountains of eastern Cuba, their forces finally overthrew Batista’s government. Havana, once a playground for the rich, was suddenly transformed into the epicenter of radical political change. Luxury casinos and hotels, many owned by American mafias, were shut down or repurposed for public use. The government quickly moved to nationalize foreign-owned industries, including sugar plantations and oil refineries, leading to immediate tensions with the United States. In response, the U.S. imposed economic sanctions, and by 1961, diplomatic ties were severed, pushing Cuba further into the Soviet Union’s sphere of influence.

The revolution sent shockwaves through Latin America and beyond, inspiring other leftist movements while alarming Western governments. Havana became a symbol of defiance, a city that stood against American imperialism and embraced a socialist future. After the success of the Cuban Revolution, Fidel Castro wasted no time in reshaping Havana and the country at large. Under his leadership, Cuba underwent sweeping reforms, nationalizing industries, redistributing land, and launching ambitious social programs in education and healthcare. While these efforts significantly improved literacy rates and medical access, they also came at the cost of political freedoms. Opposition was swiftly crushed, and thousands of Cubans, especially from the upper and middle classes, fled the country, many resettling in Miami. Havana, once a lively hub of international commerce and tourism, became isolated from its former allies in the West, forging closer ties with the Soviet Union. Havana,  once a hub of international trade and tourism, was reshaped by the revolution, its streets filled with propaganda, military parades, and the echoes of speeches that would define Cuba’s new identity.

In April 1961, the world watched as the United States launched a covert operation to overthrow Fidel Castro’s government in what became known as the Bay of Pigs invasion. The plan, orchestrated by the CIA, involved training and arming a force of Cuban exiles who opposed Castro’s communist regime. The exiles landed on Cuba’s southern coast, expecting to spark an uprising against the government. However, the operation quickly fell apart—Castro’s forces, well-prepared and deeply entrenched, crushed the invasion within days. Havana became a focal point of celebration as Castro declared victory over American imperialism, solidifying his power and further aligning Cuba with the Soviet Union.

The failed invasion not only humiliated the U.S. but also escalated Cold War tensions, leading directly to the Cuban Missile Crisis the following year. For Havana, it reinforced the revolution’s narrative of resilience and defiance. The city saw an increased military presence, with anti-aircraft guns lining the streets and citizens being mobilized for national defense. Castro used the event to justify a harsher crackdown on political opposition, ensuring that Havana remained firmly under revolutionary control. The Bay of Pigs had unintended consequences for both Cuba and the U.S.—instead of weakening Castro, it strengthened his grip on power and pushed Cuba deeper into the Cold War conflict.

This alliance with the Soviet Union would soon place Havana at the center of one of the most dangerous moments in modern history—the Cuban Missile Crisis of 1962. After the U.S. attempted to overthrow Castro’s government through the failed Bay of Pigs invasion, Cuba sought stronger military support from the Soviets. In response, Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev secretly deployed nuclear missiles to Cuba, positioning them within striking distance of major American cities. When U.S. spy planes discovered the missile sites under construction, President John F. Kennedy demanded their immediate removal, initiating a tense 13-day standoff that brought the world to the brink of nuclear war. Havana, the heart of Cuba’s revolution, suddenly found itself at the center of a global crisis.

During these tense days, the people of Havana lived under the constant threat of invasion or even nuclear annihilation. The city was placed on high alert, with citizens preparing for the possibility of war. Ultimately, a secret agreement was reached—Khrushchev agreed to remove the missiles from Cuba in exchange for the U.S. pledging not to invade the island and secretly agreeing to remove American missiles from Turkey. While the immediate threat passed, the crisis cemented Cuba’s role as a key player in the Cold War and deepened its hostility with the U.S. For Havana, the aftermath meant further economic hardship as the American embargo tightened, limiting trade and resources for decades to come. 

Castro continued to solidify his power, and the city became a hub for revolutionary movements around the world. It hosted political leaders, intellectuals, and activists from across Latin America, Africa, and beyond, all drawn by Cuba’s commitment to socialist ideals. Yet, beneath the revolutionary rhetoric, Havana’s isolation grew, and the economic strain became more apparent. 

Life for the average Cuban under Fidel Castro’s government was defined by both resilience and restriction. While the revolution promised equality and social progress, the reality was often harsh. Citizens faced frequent power outages, food shortages, and government-imposed rationing, making daily life a struggle. Basic necessities like soap and cooking oil were difficult to obtain, and long lines for bread or milk became a normal part of existence. The government controlled nearly every aspect of the economy, limiting opportunities for personal wealth or private enterprise. Despite free healthcare and education—two of the revolution’s biggest achievements—many Cubans felt trapped in a system where upward mobility was nearly impossible.

 One of the most suffocating aspects of life under Castro was the lack of freedom to travel. Leaving the country required government approval, which was rarely granted, and those who tried to escape faced severe consequences, including imprisonment or exile. Families were often separated, with relatives in Miami or Spain unable to visit their loved ones in Cuba. Even within the country, movement was restricted, and access to foreign media was tightly controlled to prevent outside influence. The Cuban government’s grip on information meant that only state-approved narratives were allowed, making it difficult for people to know what was really happening beyond their borders.

Perhaps most chilling was the ever-present culture of surveillance. The government placed spies, known as informants, in neighborhoods, workplaces, and even social gatherings to report on anyone who spoke critically of the regime. These informants were often ordinary citizens—neighbors, coworkers, or even family members—who were either loyal to the government or coerced into compliance. Fear of being overheard led many Cubans to self-censor, speaking in hushed tones or avoiding political discussions altogether. The presence of the state in everyday life was inescapable, making trust a rare and fragile thing. Havana, once a city known for its vibrant social life, became a place where people learned to watch their words and always look over their shoulders.

 During this time and for years t come, the Cuban government recognized the value of the city’s architectural heritage. Efforts to preserve Old Havana had begun in the early 1980s, leading to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1982. 

The collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 sent shockwaves through Cuba’s economy, plunging Havana into what became known as the "Special Period." Without Soviet aid and trade, fuel shortages crippled transportation, food became scarce, and electricity blackouts were a daily reality. The grand colonial buildings of Old Havana, already weathered by time, fell further into disrepair,  forcing the government to turn to tourism as a means of financial recovery. Despite the ongoing U.S. embargo, travelers from Europe, Canada, and Latin America flocked to Havana, drawn by its colonial architecture, vibrant music scene, and the allure of a city seemingly frozen in time. The Cuban government invested heavily in restoring historic buildings, particularly in Old Havana, where crumbling facades were transformed into boutique hotels and cultural landmarks. Tourism quickly became one of the country's primary sources of income, bringing both economic relief and a new wave of foreign influence to the capital.

Economic reforms took a more dramatic turn in 2011 under Raúl Castro, who introduced policies allowing small private businesses to operate more freely. This shift was felt most strongly in Havana, where a surge of privately owned paladares (restaurants), guesthouses, and artisan markets reshaped the local economy. For the first time in decades, entrepreneurship had a place in Cuban society, creating opportunities for Havana’s residents while subtly challenging the state’s monopoly on commerce. The city became a mix of old and new—classic American cars still cruised the Malecón, but now they shared the streets with new bars, hip cafés, and Wi-Fi hotspots that connected Cubans to the world like never before.

Perhaps the most symbolic moment of Havana’s reintegration into the global stage came in 2015 when U.S. President Barack Obama visited the city, becoming the first sitting American president to do so in nearly 90 years. His trip, marked by a speech at the Gran Teatro de La Habana and meetings with Cuban leaders, represented a thaw in decades of Cold War-era hostility. For a brief moment, Havana seemed poised for a new era of diplomacy and economic openness. However, much of this progress was rolled back under the following U.S. administration, demonstrating the fragile nature of Cuba’s relationship with its powerful northern neighbor. Still, Havana remains a city of resilience—one that has weathered centuries of upheaval and continues to evolve while holding on to its rich history and cultural soul.