The Restful Record: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Welcome to tonight's episode of The Restful Record. Drift into sleep as we explore the history of Buenos Aires, Argentina. From its early days as a Spanish colony to its rise as a center of culture, trade, and politics, this episode guides you through the city's past. Learn about the impact of European immigration, the birth of tango, and the transformations that shaped Buenos Aires into one of South America's most influential cities.

Along the way, you’ll hear about key figures like Juan and Eva Perón, the destruction of the military dictatorship and Dirty War, and how Buenos Aires became known as the “Paris of South America.” Whether you're a history lover, travel enthusiast, or simply seeking a peaceful way to fall asleep, this episode is your perfect bedtime companion.

💤 Don’t forget to like, subscribe, and hit the notification bell if you enjoy this content! It helps support the podcast and brings more peaceful episodes your way.

Podcast cover art image by Eric Nopanen.

Transcript

Welcome to tonight’s episode of The Restful Record. Whether you're here for relaxation, to de-stress, or to help you fall into a deep sleep, we welcome you. This season we take a gentle journey through time, exploring the stories of different cities around the world. Before we dive into tonight’s city, let's take a moment to relax. Close your eyes, settle into a comfortable position, and take a slow, deep breath in through your nose... hold for a moment... and then exhale slowly through your mouth. Let the weight of your day melt away as you breathe in calm and breathe out any tension you might be carrying. With each breath, feel yourself sinking deeper into relaxation. Now, as we drift through the history of tonight’s city, let the soothing rhythm of my voice guide you deep into relaxation or sleep.

Long before Buenos Aires became the bustling capital of Argentina, the land it sits on was shaped by natural forces over millions of years. The region is part of the Pampas, a vast expanse of fertile grasslands stretching across central Argentina, Uruguay, and southern Brazil. Thousands of years ago, this landscape was teeming with now-extinct megafauna, including giant ground sloths, glyptodonts—massive armadillo-like creatures—and saber-toothed cats. The climate was milder than it is today, with periods of glacial expansion giving way to warmer interglacial phases. Rivers like the Río de la Plata provided fresh water and supported rich ecosystems of fish, birds, and mammals, making the area a favorable place for early human habitation.

 The earliest known inhabitants of what is now Buenos Aires were hunter-gatherer groups who arrived at least 12,000 years ago. These early peoples, likely related to the Querandíes and other indigenous groups of the Pampas, relied on the land’s abundant wildlife and seasonal plant life for sustenance. They hunted guanacos and rheas, fished in the rivers, and gathered fruits and roots from the native vegetation. Their homes were temporary structures made of animal hides and wooden poles, designed to be dismantled and moved as they followed migrating herds. Over time, these groups developed a distinct cultural identity, using stone tools and creating decorative ceramics, though they left behind few permanent settlements due to their nomadic lifestyle.

 By the time European explorers arrived in the early 16th century, the land around Buenos Aires was home to several indigenous groups, including the Querandíes, Guaraníes, and Chaná-Timbú peoples. The Querandíes, who inhabited the Pampas near the Río de la Plata, were skilled hunters and fishers, using bolas—which are weighted cords—to hunt guanacos and deer. Meanwhile, the Guaraníes lived in more forested areas to the north, practicing agriculture and cultivating crops like maize, manioc, and yerba mate. These groups traded with one another and maintained distinct cultural traditions, including complex oral histories and spiritual beliefs tied to nature. However, their way of life was soon disrupted by Spanish colonization.

 In 1536, Spanish explorer Pedro de Mendoza led an expedition to establish the first European settlement at Buenos Aires, but it was short-lived. The settlers struggled with food shortages and conflicts with the Querandíes, who resisted Spanish attempts to control their land. By 1541, the colony was abandoned, and the Spanish retreated to Asunción in present-day Paraguay. It wasn't until 1580 that Juan de Garay successfully reestablished Buenos Aires, laying the foundation for a permanent European presence. Over the following centuries, the city grew as part of the Spanish colonial empire, serving as a hub for trade, particularly in cattle hides and silver from the mines of Potosí. Yet, Buenos Aires remained somewhat isolated, as Spain prioritized its ports in Lima and Mexico City, limiting the city's access to direct transatlantic trade.

 In 1806 and 1807, as the Napoleonic Wars raged across Europe, British forces sought to expand their influence in South America by attacking the Spanish-controlled Río de la Plata region. The first invasion in 1806 saw British troops briefly occupy Buenos Aires, only to be expelled by local militias under the leadership of Santiago de Liniers. A year later, the British launched a second attempt, this time facing fierce resistance from the city's residents, who had armed themselves and fought street by street. Once again, Liniers played a crucial role in driving out the invaders, and these victories boosted local confidence in self-governance. The failure of Spanish authorities to defend Buenos Aires effectively led many porteños - or person of the port as peeople of Buenos Aires at the time were called -  to question their reliance on Spain, planting early seeds of the independence movement.

 This growing discontent culminated in the May Revolution of 1810, a turning point in Argentine history. With Spain weakened by Napoleon’s occupation, Buenos Aires seized the moment to reject colonial rule. On May 25, the city’s Cabildo (town council) dismissed the Spanish viceroy and established a new governing junta, composed of local leaders. Though initially framed as a temporary measure until Spain’s monarchy was restored, the revolution ultimately set Argentina on the path to full independence. Over the next decade, conflicts between royalist forces and independence fighters shaped the region’s future, culminating in Argentina’s formal declaration of independence in 1816.

 Throughout the early 19th century, Argentina was torn between two competing visions of governance. The Federalists, largely supported by rural provinces, championed regional autonomy and opposed the dominance of Buenos Aires. Meanwhile, the Unitarians, backed by the city’s elite, sought a centralized government that would consolidate power in the capital. This ideological struggle ignited violent conflicts, including the Argentine Civil Wars, which saw shifting alliances and prolonged instability. By 1829, Federalist leader Juan Manuel de Rosas rose to power in Buenos Aires, enforcing strict control through censorship, political repression, and his feared Mazorca secret police. His rule was marked by economic policies favoring Buenos Aires at the expense of the interior provinces, further deepening divisions within the country.

 Rosas maintained his grip on power for over two decades, using both military force and populist measures to secure loyalty. However, opposition to his authoritarian rule grew, especially among exiled Unitarians who sought foreign support to overthrow him. In 1852, Justo José de Urquiza, a former Federalist ally turned adversary, led an army against Rosas in the Battle of Caseros. With the backing of Brazil and anti-Rosas factions, Urquiza emerged victorious, forcing Rosas into exile in England. His downfall marked a turning point in Argentina’s history, paving the way for the 1853 Constitution, which laid the foundation for a more unified nation. However, tensions between Buenos Aires and the provinces persisted, shaping the country’s political landscape for years to come.

 After the fall of  Rosas, Buenos Aires rejected the newly formed Argentine Confederation, fearing a loss of its economic and political dominance. In 1853, while the Confederation adopted a national constitution, Buenos Aires remained separate, governed by its own leaders and maintaining control over its lucrative port. Tensions escalated into armed conflict, culminating in the 1859 Battle of Cepeda, where Buenos Aires was forced to negotiate its reintegration. However, full reunification only came in 1862 when Bartolomé Mitre, a key figure in Buenos Aires' resistance, became Argentina’s first national president, solidifying the city’s status as the country’s political and economic center.

 In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Buenos Aires became a thriving centter of immigration, with millions of Europeans—predominantly Italians and Spaniards—arriving in search of opportunity. This massive influx reshaped the city’s identity, fueling economic expansion as Argentina capitalized on its fertile Pampas to become one of the world’s leading agricultural exporters. The wealth generated from beef, wheat, and other commodities financed grand neoclassical and Beaux-Arts buildings, giving Buenos Aires its distinctive European-inspired elegance. Amid this transformation, tango emerged from the working-class neighborhoods, blending African, Indigenous, and European influences into a passionate dance and musical genre that soon captivated the world. During this period, Argentina ranked among the wealthiest nations globally, its booming economy and cultural vibrancy earning Buenos Aires the nickname “the Paris of South America.”

 Buenos Aires in the 1940s and 1950s was the epicenter of one of Argentina’s most defining political movements: Peronism. Juan Domingo Perón rose to power in 1946, backed by the working class, labor unions, and his immensely popular wife, Eva Perón. Together, they reshaped Argentina’s social and economic landscape through ambitious welfare programs, industrial expansion, and workers’ rights reforms. Eva, affectionately called "Evita," became a beloved figure, advocating for women's suffrage, which was achieved in 1947, and championing the poor. Under Perón’s leadership, Buenos Aires transformed into a stronghold of populist politics, with grand infrastructure projects and cultural initiatives reinforcing the image of a prosperous, self-reliant Argentina. However, these policies also fueled tensions with the elite and segments of the military, who viewed Perón as authoritarian and overly aligned with labor groups.

 By the early 1950s, Argentina was facing economic strain as Perón's policies led to inflation and declining exports. While his government continued to promote industrialization and social welfare, growing opposition from conservatives, the military, and sections of the Catholic Church weakened his grip on power. The death of Eva Perón in 1952 further destabilized his administration, depriving him of his most effective public advocate. By 1955, tensions erupted into open conflict when a failed coup attempt in June was followed by a successful military uprising in September. Perón was overthrown and fled into exile, marking the end of his first presidency. Buenos Aires, once a city that had celebrated his rise, became a battleground for the factions left behind—Peronists who remained loyal to his vision and those seeking to erase his influence from Argentina’s political landscape.

 Despite his exile, Peronism remained a dominant force in Argentine politics, shaping the capital and the country for decades to come. The military government that replaced him banned Peronist symbols and persecuted his supporters, but the movement endured underground. Throughout the late 1950s and beyond, Argentina experienced cycles of military coups and democratic restorations, with Perón’s legacy influencing lead ers across the political spectrum. Even today, Buenos Aires bears the imprint of Peronism in its labor laws, public services, and political rhetoric. The movement’s ability to endure, evolve, and resurface in different forms speaks to the deep roots it established in Argentina’s identity, making the 1940s and 50s a defining era in the country’s history.

 After World War II, Argentina became a refuge for numerous Nazi fugitives escaping prosecution in Europe. During Perón’s presidency (1946–1955), the country established secret networks that facilitated the escape of high-ranking Nazi officials. These included figures like Adolf Eichmann, who was later captured by Mossad in Buenos Aires in 1960, and Josef Mengele, the infamous doctor of Auschwitz, who lived in Argentina before fleeing to Paraguay. Perón, who had sympathized with fascist ideologies and sought to modernize Argentina with European expertise, allowed these individuals to settle in the country, often under false identities. The influx of Nazis, especially into cities like Buenos Aires, Córdoba, and Bariloche, left a complex legacy, with some fugitives integrating into Argentine society while others maintained far-right ideologies in small, secretive communities.

 Buenos Aires  has seen many political upheavals, but few periods were as harrowing as the military dictatorship that ruled from 1976 to 1983. On March 24, 1976, the Argentine military, led by General Jorge Rafael Videla, seized power in a coup against then President Isabel Perón, who was Juan Peron's widow.  This marked the beginning of the so-called Process of National Reorganization, a brutal regime that sought to eliminate political opposition through state terrorism. Under the guise of fighting leftist guerrillas, the military engaged in widespread human rights abuses, including enforced disappearances, torture, and extrajudicial killings. The junta targeted students, journalists, intellectuals, and anyone suspected of dissent, leading to what became known as la Guerra Sucia, or the Dirty War.

 During these years, an estimated 30,000 people were forcibly disappeared, a term used to describe those who were abducted and never seen again. Many were taken to clandestine detention centers, where they were tortured before being executed. One of the most notorious sites was the Navy Mechanics School, where thousands of political prisoners were held. Some were drugged and thrown from airplanes into the Río de la Plata in so-called death flights. Amid this terror, a group of courageous women, the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo, began protesting in 1977, demanding to know the fate of their missing children. Their persistent demonstrations in front of the presidential palace became a powerful symbol of resistance and human rights advocacy in Argentina.

 The dictatorship began to unravel after Argentina’s disastrous attempt to reclaim the Falkland Islands from Britain in 1982. The military suffered a swift defeat, severely damaging its credibility and hastening its downfall. By late 1983, the regime could no longer maintain control, and democratic elections were held. Raúl Alfonsín, a civilian leader, took office in December 1983, marking the return of democracy. In the years that followed, Argentina grappled with the legacy of the Dirty War, launching investigations and trials against military officials responsible for human rights violations. Though challenges remained, the country’s commitment to justice and memory helped shape its modern democracy, ensuring that the horrors of the past would not be forgotten.

 Buenos Aires has undergone significant economic, political, and cultural shifts from the 1990s to the present day. In the early 1990s, Argentina was emerging from the hyperinflation of the late 80s, and President Carlos Menem implemented neoliberal reforms, including the controversial Convertibility Plan, which pegged the Argentine peso to the U.S. dollar. This brought short-term stability but led to a deep economic crisis by the end of the decade. By 2001, Argentina faced one of its worst financial collapses, resulting in massive protests, the resignation of President Fernando de la Rúa, and a revolving door of presidents. Buenos Aires, the country’s political and economic hub, was at the center of these upheavals, with widespread unemployment, bank freezes, and a surge in barter economies as people struggled to afford basic goods.

 In the 2000s, the city gradually recovered under the presidencies of Néstor and Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, who focused on social spending, nationalizing key industries, and restructuring Argentina’s debt. Buenos Aires flourished culturally, with increased investment in the arts, theater, and tango revival, reinforcing its status as a major Latin American cultural capital. However, by the mid-2010s, economic difficulties resurfaced. Protests against austerity measures and IMF involvement echoed the unrest of the early 2000s. Meanwhile, Buenos Aires continued to expand its urban development, including the revitalization of Puerto Madero and the expansion of public transportation, such as the Metrobus system.

From 2020 onward, Buenos Aires faced new challenges, particularly with the COVID-19 pandemic, which heavily impacted the city’s economy and healthcare system. Under President Alberto Fernández, lockdowns led to business closures and increased poverty, further exacerbating Argentina’s ongoing financial struggles. By 2023, the election of libertarian economist Javier Milei signaled a drastic shift, with promises to dollarize the economy and reduce state intervention. Buenos Aires remains a city of contrasts—home to world-class restaurants, a vibrant nightlife, and a strong literary tradition, yet grappling with inflation, social unrest, and economic instability. As Argentina moves forward, Buenos Aires continues to be a dynamic metropolis, reflecting the resilience and spirit of its people.

 Thank you for joining us on this evening of The Restful Record. Rest well.