The Restful Record: Port-au-Prince, Haiti

In this calming episode of The Restful Record, we journey through the fascinating and complex history of Port-au-Prince, the bustling capital of Haiti. From its roots as a French colonial settlement to its evolution as a cultural, political, and economic hub, this episode offers a relaxing, richly narrated story that sheds light on the resilience and vibrancy of the Haitian people.

You'll drift through tales of indigenous Taino heritage, the rise of Saint-Domingue as a wealthy colony, the Haitian Revolution, and the founding of the world’s first Black republic in 1804. 

Perfect for history lovers, armchair travelers, and those curious about the Caribbean, Black history, or the African diaspora, this episode is ideal for winding down, learning something new, and connecting with the past.

🎧 Topics include:

• The founding of Port-au-Prince in 1749
• The role of Haiti in the Atlantic slave trade
• The Haitian Revolution and Toussaint Louverture
• Post-independence development and challenges
• The 2010 earthquake and rebuilding efforts

💤 Don’t forget to like, subscribe, and hit the notification bell if you enjoy this content! It helps support the podcast and brings more peaceful episodes your way.

Podcast cover art image by Eric Nopanen.

Transcript

Welcome to tonight’s episode of The Restful Record. Whether you're here to de-stress, for relaxation, or to help you fall into a deep sleep, we welcome you. This season we take a gentle journey through time, exploring the stories of different cities around the world. Before we dive into tonight’s city, let's take a moment to relax. Close your eyes, settle into a comfortable position, and take a slow, deep breath in through your nose... hold for a moment... and then exhale slowly through your mouth. Let the weight of your day melt away as you breathe in calm and breathe out any tension you might be holding. With each breath, feel yourself sinking deeper into relaxation. Now, as we drift through the history of tonight’s city, let the soothing rhythm of my voice guide you deep into relaxation.

Port-au-Prince is the capital city of Haiti, a country on the island of Hispañola, in the Caribbean sea, Southeast of Cuba.  The city is surrounded by mountains and coastal plains. Its tropical climate has warm temperatures year-round, typically ranging between 23°C  in the cooler months and 35° in the hotter season. The region experiences a rainy season from April to November, with the potential for hurricanes and tropical storms, which have had devastating effects throughout Haiti’s history. The environment around Port-au-Prince was once rich in biodiversity, with lush forests and diverse wildlife, but extensive deforestation over the centuries has led to soil erosion and increased vulnerability to natural disasters. Some remaining flora includes palm trees, mahogany, and mango groves.

Before European colonization, the island of Hispaniola, which Haiti shares with the Dominican Republic, was home to the Taíno people. These Indigenous inhabitants had a sophisticated society based on fishing, agriculture, and trade, growing crops like cassava, maize, and sweet potatoes. When Christopher Columbus arrived in 1492, he established the first European settlement in the Americas, La Navidad, on what is now Haiti’s northern coast. Spanish rule brought forced labor, violence, and disease, which quickly decimated the Taíno population. By the early 16th century, African enslaved people were brought to the island to replace the Indigenous workforce. While Spain largely focused its efforts on the more resource-rich parts of its growing empire, France took increasing interest in the western portion of Hispaniola, leading to the Treaty of Ryswick in 1697, which officially granted France control over what became the colony of Saint-Domingue—which is modern-day Haiti.

Saint-Domingue and the Spanish-controlled Santo Domingo, now the Dominican Republic, developed along very different paths. Under French rule, Saint-Domingue became the most profitable colony in the Caribbean, driven by slave labour. In contrast, the Spanish side of the island had fewer large plantations and relied more on cattle ranching and small-scale agriculture, with a smaller enslaved population and a more racially mixed society. These differences played a crucial role in shaping the histories of the two nations. 

Port Au Prince was established as a small French settlement in 1749. Located on the Caribbean coast, the city offered a prime position for importing goods from France and exporting the vast wealth produced by the colony’s plantations. Sugar, coffee, and indigo were the most valuable commodities, fueling a booming economy driven by enslaved labor.   The port was a key location for the exchange of these goods, and its connection to the transatlantic slave trade made it one of the wealthiest cities in the world at the time. The streets were filled with traders, artisans, and enslaved people, creating a vibrant, if deeply unequal, society.

At this time, Haiti was a colony under French rule, and its landscape was shaped by a stark contrast of wealth and oppression. The elite plantation owners, largely of French descent, lived in grand homes and dominated the local economy, while the enslaved African labor force worked tirelessly in the fields to sustain the sugar and coffee trade. The inhabitants of Port-au-Prince reflected this divide. While the wealthier French colonists enjoyed lavish lives, the enslaved Africans and free people of color lived in starkly different conditions, often subjected to brutal treatment. Among the free people of color, many had achieved status as artisans, merchants, or property owners, though they faced severe discrimination. 

The Haitian Revolution, which began in 1791, was the first successful slave rebellion in history, leading to the establishment of Haiti as the first independent black republic. The revolution was sparked by the brutal conditions of enslaved Africans working on French plantations in the colony of Saint-Domingue.  One of the most iconic figures of the revolution was Toussaint Louverture, an enslaved man who became a brilliant military leader. Under his leadership, the enslaved population fought against French, Spanish, and British forces, eventually securing autonomy for the colony. His military strategies and ability to unite the diverse groups within the colony, including enslaved people, free people of color, and even some former masters, were instrumental in the revolution's success.

By 1804, after years of war and political upheaval, Haiti declared its independence, becoming the first nation in the Americas to abolish slavery. The revolution, while celebrated for its abolition of slavery and establishment of independence, also had long-lasting effects on Haiti's internal political and social systems, with power struggles and economic challenges continuing to plague the young nation. Despite these struggles, the Haitian Revolution remains a symbol of resistance and the fight for freedom. Leaders like Jean-Jacques Dessalines, who declared independence after Louverture’s capture by the French, became crucial figures in shaping the nation’s early history. However, his rule quickly became controversial due to his authoritarian style and policies, including his stance on the treatment of former French colonists. Many of his former allies, including Henri Christophe and Alexandre Pétion, grew disillusioned with his leadership, leading to political divisions that would culminate in his assassination. Dessalines was killed by a group of conspirators in 1806,  including members of his own army, who saw his leadership as a threat to their power and vision for Haiti’s future.

 The death of Dessalines plunged Haiti into a period of instability, with power struggles and rival factions vying for control. His assassination fractured the unity that had been so crucial for Haiti's fight for independence, with two key factions emerging: one led by Christophe in the north and the other by Pétion in the south. This division deepened the political and social turmoil, contributing to Haiti's long history of instability. 

Following Christophe’s death in 1820, Jean-Pierre Boyer reunified Haiti and even annexed Santo Domingo in 1822, maintaining control until a revolt ousted him in 1843. The mid-19th century saw repeated coups, short-lived presidencies, and economic struggles, exacerbated by Haiti’s crippling debt to France, which demanded 150 million francs in reparations for lost colonial property in 1825. Throughout the late 19th century, Port-au-Prince remained the political heart of Haiti but suffered from weak governance, corruption, and foreign interference, particularly from France, Germany, and the United States, all of whom vied for economic influence. By the early 20th century, internal instability and foreign pressure paved the way for the U.S. occupation of Haiti, fundamentally reshaping the nation’s trajectory.

 In 1915, the U.S. intervened under the guise of restoring stability after political turmoil, but it resulted in the imposition of a military government that controlled Haiti's finances and infrastructure. While the U.S. government argued that the occupation was to maintain order and protect American interests, many Haitians viewed it as an act of imperialism. The occupation saw the U.S. build roads, schools, and hospitals, but also imposed harsh labor laws, including the corvée system, which forced Haitians to work for the government under duress. One notable story is that of Charlemagne Peralte, a Haitian nationalist leader who fought against U.S. forces and became a symbol of resistance. Peralte's eventual execution by U.S. forces in 1919 fueled anti-American sentiment, and his legacy continues to influence Haitian pride and identity today. Despite efforts to modernize the country, the occupation left a lasting legacy of resentment, political instability, and economic dependency that Haiti continues to grapple with.

The U.S. withdrew in 1934, leaving behind a centralized military that would later play a key role in Haiti’s political instability. The following decades saw a cycle of coups and short-lived governments, with Port-au-Prince as the focal point of power struggles. In 1950, General Paul Magloire took control in a military-backed election, ushering in a period of relative stability and infrastructure development. However, economic struggles, growing political unrest, and Hurricane Hazel’s devastation in 1954 weakened his rule, leading to his resignation in 1956. 

A year later began the Duvalier Dynasty, led first by François "Papa Doc" Duvalier and later by his son Jean-Claude "Baby Doc" Duvalier, ruled Haiti from 1957 to 1986, leaving an indelible mark on the country and its capital.  François Duvalier, who came to power after a tumultuous election, capitalized on widespread fear and the division between the elite and the poor. He presented himself as a protector of the poor, particularly the rural population, but his leadership quickly devolved into a brutal dictatorship. Under his rule, established in 1959, the Tonton Macoute operated with impunity, terrorizing the Haitian population by arresting, torturing, and executing anyone suspected of opposing the regime. Unlike a formal military, they were a loosely organized but highly effective network of enforcers, recognizable by their dark sunglasses and straw hats, often linked to Vodou symbolism to instill fear. Their brutality extended beyond political dissidents to journalists, students, and ordinary citizens, with an estimated 30,000 people killed under their reign of terror.

 The Duvalier regime wreaked havoc on Haiti's economy and infrastructure, and Port-au-Prince was no exception. With the military and government taking the lion’s share of national resources, the capital’s public services deteriorated, while poverty soared. Foreign aid, which Haiti heavily depended on, was often siphoned off by Duvalier's family and associates, leaving the majority of the population in despair. In the streets of Port-au-Prince, the gap between the rich and the poor grew wider, with a tiny elite benefiting from the regime's policies, while the majority struggled to survive. Many neighborhoods near the capital were transformed into slums as factories closed, and unemployment skyrocketed under Duvalier's corrupt rule.

By the time Baby Doc Duavlier succeeded his father in 1971, the country was deeply entrenched in authoritarianism, with political opposition all but crushed. Although he initially promised reforms, his government continued the violent repression of dissent. While most Haitians struggled with dire poverty—lacking access to clean water, healthcare, and basic services—Baby Doc and his inner circle lived in extravagant luxury. He and his wife, Michèle Bennett, threw lavish parties, imported expensive European cars, and resided in opulent mansions while the majority of Haitians lived in crumbling homes or overcrowded slums like Cité Soleil. His regime profited from corruption, siphoning off millions from international aid and government funds, even as the country’s economy collapsed under mismanagement. The gap between the ruling elite and everyday Haitians was staggering, with malnutrition and unemployment rampant among the population. Ultimately, growing public outrage, economic decline, and international pressure forced Baby Doc into exile in 1986, where he feld to France amid massive protests. However, the economic and social damage from his rule left lasting scars on Haiti, and inequality remains a defining issue in Port-au-Prince and Haiti to this day.

 But corruption and economic instability are only one part of the story. Haiti has a very unique culture. It is powerful blend of African, European, and Indigenous. It has shaped history as the first independent Black republic in the world. The country’s official languages are Haitian Creole and French, with Creole being the most widely spoken. Haitian Creole evolved from a mixture of French, West African languages, and elements of Taíno, the language of the island’s Indigenous people. While French is used in government and formal settings, Creole remains the true language of the people, carrying the rhythms and expressions of Haiti’s oral traditions, storytelling, and music. Despite its linguistic ties to France, Haiti has a distinct identity that is deeply rooted in its African heritage.

 As mentioned at the beginning of this episode, Haiti shares the island of Hispaniola with the Dominican Republic, but the two nations have a long and complicated relationship. Centuries of colonial rule, slavery, and political tensions have created cultural and economic divisions. Haiti was once the wealthiest French colony, built on the backs of enslaved Africans who worked brutal conditions on sugar and coffee plantations. After the Haitian Revolution of 1804 Haiti became a symbol of Black liberation. However, its independence came at a cost—France imposed a massive debt on Haiti as "compensation" for lost property, which crippled its economy for over a century. Meanwhile, the Dominican Republic, under Spanish rule, developed a different social structure and economic system. Tensions between the two nations have persisted, fueled by historical conflicts, migration, and racial divisions, but the cultures of both countries remain deeply interconnected through music, food, and shared ancestry.

One of the most distinctive aspects of Haitian culture is Vodou, a spiritual practice which blends African religious traditions with Catholicism. Vodou is often misunderstood outside of Haiti, but for many Haitians, it is a way of life that connects them to their ancestors and the spiritual world. The religion centers around spirits called "lwa," who act as intermediaries between humans and the supreme creator, Bondye. Vodou rituals involve drumming, dancing, and offerings to these spirits, fostering a sense of community and healing. During the days of slavery, Vodou played a crucial role in uniting the oppressed, giving them a source of strength and resistance against their French masters. Even today, despite efforts to suppress it in favor of Christianity, Vodou remains a cornerstone of Haitian identity, influencing art, music, and daily life.

In terms of the political life in the new millennium,  The Haitian Political Crisis of 2004-2006 was marked by intense instability, fueled by widespread poverty, government corruption, and a rising tide of discontent. In early 2004, President Jean-Bertrand Aristide, the country’s first democratically elected leader, was overthrown in a violent rebellion, and he fled into exile. The collapse of his administration plunged the nation into chaos, with rebel forces and various political factions vying for control. The people of Haiti, many of whom lived in dire conditions, were caught in the crossfire. Stories like that of Marie, a mother from Port-au-Prince, became tragically common—her home was destroyed in clashes between armed groups, and she was forced to flee with her children, seeking refuge in a nearby makeshift camp. The interim government that took power after Aristide’s departure struggled to maintain order while international peacekeeping forces, led by the United Nations, worked to stabilize the country. Despite these efforts, poverty and violence continued to escalate, leaving the future of Haiti uncertain for years to come.

 Only 4 years after stability returned,  Haiti experienced a devastating natural disaster. The 2010 Haitian earthquake, one of the most devastating natural disasters in recent history, struck on January 12 with a magnitude of 7.0. The epicenter was just 25 kilometers southwest of the  capital, which bore the brunt of the destruction. Buildings, homes, and infrastructure were obliterated, leaving over 230,000 dead, more than 300,000 injured, and around 1.5 million displaced. Port-au-Prince, already struggling with poverty and political instability, was left in ruins, with entire neighborhoods flattened. The city’s hospitals and government buildings were destroyed, and countless Haitians lost loved ones or found themselves homeless in the aftermath.

 Among those affected was 35-year-old Margo, a mother of two who was at home when the earthquake struck. Her house collapsed, trapping her and her children. Despite being injured, she managed to escape with her children, only to find herself in a city overwhelmed by chaos, with limited medical care and basic necessities. The emotional and physical toll of the disaster was compounded by the outbreak of cholera later that year. In October, a cholera epidemic spread rapidly through the country, attributed to contaminated water sources and potentially, UN peacekeepers arriving from elsewhere around the world. Thousands fell ill, and many died, with Port-au-Prince once again facing a public health crisis. The earthquake had already weakened the infrastructure, and the cholera outbreak further strained the already fragile healthcare system, compounding the suffering of Haitians trying to rebuild their lives.

In the aftermath of the 2010 earthquake, the city continued to rebuild, facing challenges again, like political instability, poverty, and the impacts of natural disasters such as hurricanes and floods. In 2016, another hurricane, Hurricane Matthew caused significant devastation, leaving entire communities without homes and further hampering recovery efforts. Despite these setbacks, the Haitian people demonstrated incredible resilience, with local businesses, international aid, and grassroots organizations working together to restore vital infrastructure. In the face of adversity, the people of Port-au-Prince and beyond have continued to hold onto their spirit of perseverance, with the arts, music, and cultural traditions playing a crucial role in maintaining national pride.

 In the broader context of Haiti, the period from 2015 to 2025 has been marked by a complex political landscape.  The assassination of Haiti's president in 2021 further plunged the nation into political chaos.  At the time of recording this episode is 2025, Port Au Prince and Haiti more broadly face poverty, gang violence, and political unrest.

 But despite these hardships, numerous individuals and organizations have remained committed to improving conditions, particularly in education, health care, and human rights. Stories of everyday Haitians, like community leaders working on clean water projects or educators pushing to provide better opportunities for the next generation, offer a testament to the strength and resolve of the people. Haiti's cultural richness, its vibrant art scene, and the creativity of its people continue to shine through the darkest of times.

 As we wrap up this episode, it's clear that while Port-au-Prince and Haiti have faced unimaginable challenges over the last decade, the heart and soul of the nation remain unbroken. Haitians continue to fight for a better future, one built on resilience, hope, and unity and Haiti's story is far from over. Thank you for joining us on tonight's episode of The Restful Record - Rest well.