The Restful Record: Lagos, Nigeria

Tonight on The Restful Record, we journey to the colorful heart of Lagos, Nigeria — a city where dynamic energy and deep history meet the soothing rhythm of the Atlantic Ocean.

In this sleep-friendly episode, you'll hear about the city's rich history going back to before the Yoruba and Awori people, meandering through colonial influences from Portuguese and British traders, explore the devastation of the slave trade, and learn about it's modern vibrance — all delivered in a slow, calming tone to help you relax, unwind, and ease into restful sleep.

Whether you’re looking for a sleep podcast, a guided relaxation journey, or simply a peaceful escape, this Lagos, Nigeria episode will carry you gently through one of Africa’s most fascinating cities.

💤 Don’t forget to like, subscribe, and hit the notification bell if you enjoy this content! It helps support the podcast and brings more peaceful episodes your way.

Podcast cover art image by Eric Nopanen.

Transcript

Welcome to tonight’s episode of The Restful Record. Whether you're here for relaxation, to de-stress, or to help you fall into a deep sleep, we welcome you. This season we take a gentle journey through time, exploring the stories of different cities around the world. Before we dive into tonight’s city, let's take a moment to relax. Close your eyes, settle into a comfortable position, and take a slow, deep breath in through your nose... hold for a moment... and then exhale slowly through your mouth. Let the weight of your day melt away as you breathe in calm and breathe out any tension you might be carrying from the day. With each breath, feel yourself sinking deeper into relaxation. Now, as we drift through the history of tonight’s city, let the soothing rhythm of my voice guide you deep into relaxation.

Today we explore the history of Lagos, Nigeria, a bustling city in West Africa with an estimated population of 16-20 million.

But long before modern humans set foot on the land now known as Lagos, the region was shaped by ancient geological forces. Millions of years ago, during the Late Cretaceous period, much of what is today southwestern Nigeria was submerged under shallow seas. Over countless millennia, these waters receded, leaving behind a vast, low-lying coastal plain made rich by sediment from rivers like Ogun and Osun. Gentle shifts in the Earth’s crust created barrier islands and lagoons that still define Lagos today. These ancient movements, quiet and slow, gave birth to a network of sandy beaches, tidal flats, and estuaries.

 The environment of Lagos has always been one of humid warmth, with steady temperatures ranging between 25 to 32 degrees Celsius year-round. The air is heavy with moisture, especially during the rainy season, when thick clouds roll in from the Atlantic. Even in ancient times, the seasons shifted softly between rainy and dry, nurturing a landscape of lush tropical forest interwoven with coastal mangroves. These ecosystems provided a haven for early life: crocodiles sliding through the lagoons, monkeys chattering in the treetops, and flocks of colorful birds weaving through the branches. Though much has changed, the heart of Lagos still beats to the timeless pulse of its coastal and forest environments.

 Archaeological evidence suggests that by at least 10,000 years ago, early hunter-gatherer groups moved through the region, taking shelter in the forested areas and fishing along the shores. Over time, these nomadic bands gave rise to more settled communities, ancestors of the Yoruba people who would come to dominate the region. 

 In the 15th century, the Awori established a peaceful fishing and farming community along the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. They called this place "Eko," a name that still carries deep meaning today. The Awori built a life shaped by the rhythms of the tides and the fertile land, laying down the earliest stones of what would become a bustling metropolis. Their traditions, language, and spirit planted the roots of a rich cultural identity that would continue to grow for centuries.

Eko was a bustling fishing and farming community, organized under the rule of local chiefs known as Obas. The waterways served as highways for trade and travel, linking the people to neighboring villages and distant inland kingdoms. The community thrived quietly, following the rhythm of the tides, the rains, and the seasons. Over time, the area attracted new settlers and influences, but the enduring presence of the Awori remained a quiet, steady force beneath the city's rapid evolution. The story of Lagos begins with these early builders, whose connection to the land and the sea helped shape the soul of the city.

 In the late 15th century, warm coastal waters of what is now southwestern Nigeria first drew the attention of Portuguese explorers. In 1472, as European ships sailed along the Atlantic shores of West Africa, they encountered a bustling network of islands and lagoons, teeming with local trade and life. Struck by the resemblance to a seaport back home, the explorers named the area "Lagos," borrowing the name from a coastal town in southern Portugal. This simple act of naming quietly marked the beginning of a long era of European influence in the region, setting the stage for centuries of contact, commerce, and change.

These exchanges, at first, focused on goods like spices, textiles, and ivory. Over time, however, European influence deepened. New weapons and foreign goods flowed into the region, reshaping local power dynamics. Traditional systems of governance faced growing pressures as alliances shifted and new economic opportunities—and threats—emerged.

The rise of the Atlantic slave trade in the 17th century cast a long shadow over Lagos. European traders, along with some African middlemen, built a devastating industry around the capture and sale of human beings. Lagos, with its access to inland routes and its sheltered harbor, became an important node in this grim network. Entire communities were torn apart, as warfare and raiding increased to supply the endless demand for enslaved people. Traditional Yoruba society was profoundly disrupted, with kinship ties frayed and ancient customs overshadowed by the hunger for wealth and weapons.

By the 18th century, the rulers of Lagos, known as the Obas, had become deeply entangled in the Atlantic trade. The city grew in importance but at a terrible cost. Wealth accumulated for some, but suffering expanded for many more. European traders—especially the British and Portuguese —maintained a constant presence, influencing politics and sometimes even backing rival claimants to the throne. The traditional spiritual and cultural life of Lagos' people endured but adapted under these pressures, blending old Yoruba beliefs with new influences from across the Atlantic world.

In the early 19th century, the tides began to turn. The British Empire, having abolished the slave trade in 1807, started to pressure West African coastal societies to end their participation as well. In Lagos, tensions grew between pro- and anti-slavery factions. By 1851, a pivotal moment arrived when British forces bombarded Lagos and deposed Oba Kosoko, who had resisted British demands. His rival, Oba Akitoye, was installed with British support and agreed to end the slave trade. Though slavery within Lagos would persist in various forms for decades, this marked the beginning of a new era—one in which foreign influence became even more pronounced, setting the stage for the formal colonization of Lagos in the years to come.

By the mid-19th century, Lagos had become a vibrant, strategic port city, drawing the attention of foreign powers. Amid internal conflicts among local rulers and increasing British economic interests, the British government moved to formally annex Lagos as a colony in 1861. A treaty was signed under pressure between the Oba of Lagos and British representatives, bringing the city under direct British control. This annexation marked the beginning of Lagos’s transformation into a major administrative and commercial center, not only for Nigeria but for all of West Africa. Over the decades that followed, colonial authorities developed its harbors, expanded trade routes, and made Lagos a centerpiece of British influence along the coast.

 As Lagos grew in size and importance, so did the tensions between the colonial administration and the local population, particularly the working class. In August 1897, dissatisfaction reached a boiling point when nearly 3,000 workers organized a large-scale strike — one of the first major labor protests of the colonial era in Africa. Workers protested against wage reductions and poor working conditions, effectively bringing many daily operations in the colony to a halt. The sheer size and determination of the movement surprised the colonial government, eventually forcing authorities to negotiate and grant significant concessions to the strikers, setting an early example of collective action in the region.

The events of 1861 and 1897 were pivotal in shaping the social and political fabric of Lagos. They reflected the city's emerging role as a center not just of commerce, but of political consciousness and labor organization. In the years that followed, Lagos would continue to grow, absorbing new ideas, peoples, and movements that would eventually fuel Nigeria’s broader push toward independence in the 20th century. Through its early struggles and triumphs, Lagos steadily carved its place as a city of resilience and change, resting along the tranquil shores of the Atlantic.

In the heart of Lagos, a piece of history once stood known as Ilojo Bar, built in 1855 by Afro-Brazilian ex-slaves who had returned to Nigeria after enduring years in Brazil. These settlers, often called the "Aguda," brought with them the architectural styles and cultural influences of their time abroad, weaving them into the vibrant fabric of Lagos. Ilojo Bar, with its distinct stuccoed facades and ornate balconies, served first as a popular bar and later became a cherished family home. Its significance grew over the years, and in 1956, it was officially recognized as a national monument, a testament to the enduring legacy of Afro-Brazilian craftsmanship and the complex, layered history of Lagos itself.

In 1977, Lagos proudly became the vibrant stage for FESTAC ’77, the Second World Festival of Black Arts and Culture, a monumental celebration of African heritage and unity. Over 16,000 artists, writers, and performers from 56 African nations and communities across the diaspora gathered in the city, transforming it into a live tapestry of music, dance, literature, and visual arts. The festival lasted for a full month, filling newly built venues like the National Theatre with colorful performances and powerful expressions of cultural pride. FESTAC ’77 not only highlighted the richness and diversity of African traditions, but also reinforced Lagos’s growing status as a cultural and political hub on the continent during a time of renewed Pan-African optimism. 

Lagos is now a sprawling metropolis of somewhere between 16 and 20 million people. Today, Lagos pulses with life, where narrow, bustling streets blend into glittering skyscrapers. The city is famously dense, with a population that continues to swell, drawing people from across Nigeria and beyond in search of opportunity. Despite this incredible growth, the city reveals sharp contrasts — luxurious gated communities stand not far from crowded informal settlements. Daily life can vary greatly depending on where one falls along the city’s deep economic divide, but for all who call Lagos home, there is a remarkable energy that carries them through the rhythms of each day.

Culture in Lagos — and in Nigeria more broadly — is rich and layered. Nigeria is a country of more than 250 ethnic groups, with the Yoruba, Igbo, and Hausa-Fulani among the largest. Religion plays a central role in daily life: Christianity, Islam, and indigenous spiritual practices coexist, sometimes side by side on the same street. In Lagos, it is common to hear church bells ringing early in the morning, followed soon after by the call to prayer echoing from nearby mosques. Families often gather for shared meals of spicy jollof rice, puff-puff pastries, and pepper soup, maintaining a strong sense of tradition even as modern influences weave through the city’s fabric. 

Economically, Lagos is Nigeria’s heartbeat. It houses some of Africa’s busiest ports and serves as a major center for finance, technology, and trade. Many Lagosians engage in entrepreneurial pursuits, from operating food stalls to running tech start-ups. However, beneath the gleaming towers of Victoria Island and Lekki, many residents struggle with access to stable housing, clean water, and reliable healthcare. Health and wellness services have improved in recent decades, but disparities remain stark, particularly for those living in lower-income neighborhoods, where basic services can be stretched thin.

One of the city's brightest cultural exports is Nollywood, Nigeria’s film industry, which has become one of the largest in the world. Shot quickly and often with modest budgets, Nollywood movies tell stories of love, betrayal, family, and ambition, offering both escapism and reflection for millions across Africa and the diaspora. At night, Lagos transforms once more — its vibrant bar and restaurant scene comes alive, with rooftop lounges, smoky suya stands, and beachside clubs filling with music. Afrobeats drifts into the humid air, and friends gather under the stars, sharing laughter over plates of peppered snails and cold bottles of malt drink or beer.

In recent years, Lagos has taken significant strides to enhance its infrastructure and cultural heritage. On June 10, 2021, the president inaugurated the 157-kilometre Lagos-Ibadan standard gauge railway. This modern rail line, designed for both passenger and freight services, establishes a direct link between Lagos and Ibadan, facilitating efficient transportation of goods from the Apapa port to inland destinations, thereby bolstering economic activities in the region. 

Further enriching the city's cultural landscape, the John Randle Centre for Yoruba Culture and History was unveiled in 2023. This revitalized complex, originally established in the 1920s, now features interactive exhibits, a library, seminar rooms, and dining facilities, all dedicated to celebrating Yoruba heritage. The center serves as a vibrant center for cultural tourism, offering immersive experiences that highlight the language, rituals, and traditions of the Yoruba people. These developments underscore Lagos's commitment to modernizing its infrastructure while preserving and promoting its rich cultural identity.

Although Lagos is relatively safe, the country’s instability, especially in the northern regions, has cast a shadow on daily life for many Nigerians.  The ongoing security challenges, including insurgency and violence in the north, affect the entire nation.   

The Boko Haram insurgency in Nigeria began in the early 2000s, rooted in a complex mix of political, economic, and religious factors. Founded by Mohammed Yusuf in 2002, Boko Haram, meaning "Western education is forbidden," initially operated as a religious movement that opposed Western influence in Nigerian society, advocating for the implementation of a strict interpretation of Islamic law. The group’s violent rebellion against the Nigerian government grew significantly after Yusuf's death in police custody in 2009. Over the years, Boko Haram's attacks became increasingly deadly, targeting civilians, military personnel, and government institutions in the northeast of Nigeria.

The insurgency has led to immense human suffering, with thousands of lives lost, millions displaced, and entire communities devastated. Boko Haram's use of suicide bombings, kidnappings, and guerilla tactics has fueled fear and insecurity in the region. One of the most tragic events was the abduction of 276 schoolgirls from the Chibok in 2014, which brought global attention to the group's brutal tactics. Despite efforts by the Nigerian military, regional forces, and international support, Boko Haram’s influence has persisted, and the conflict has contributed to the wider instability in the Lake Chad Basin. The humanitarian impact is profound, as the insurgency has caused a crisis in food security, healthcare, and education, with millions of people in need of aid.

Everyday Nigerians, particularly in conflict zones, face the constant threat of violence, kidnappings, and terrorist attacks, which complicate access to basic services and safety. Even as Lagos thrives with its vibrant economy, the ripple effects of this instability can be felt in the forms of increased economic strain and migration.

Though Lagos is a major economic center and sees less direct violence than some other regions, the broader instability in Nigeria influences the city in various ways. The capital city of Abuja also faces security risks due to its proximity to volatile areas, and many regions outside of Lagos are grappling with attacks from insurgents, armed bandits, and militia groups. This national insecurity means that while Lagos remains relatively safe, Nigerians living outside of major urban centers endure hardships, often enduring disruptions to their daily lives, including limited access to healthcare, education, and stable employment. Lagos' relative safety also comes at the cost of crowded living conditions, economic inequality, and an increasing strain on infrastructure. The reality for many Nigerians, whether in the north or other regions, is one of resilience in the face of an unpredictable and challenging environment.

Thank you for joining us for tonight's episode of The Restful Record: Lagos, Nigeria, once a small fishing village, grew to become one of Africa’s most vibrant and influential cities. Its history traces back to the 15th century when it was founded by the Awori people. Over time, it became an important center of trade, with the Portuguese and later the British establishing a presence. In 1865, Lagos was officially declared a British colony, and in 1960, it became part of the newly independent Nigeria. Today, Lagos stands as a bustling metropolis, rich in culture, commerce, and history. As you drift into a deep relaxation or sleep, may the story of this dynamic city bring you peace. Rest well.