The Restful Record: Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

In tonight's episode of The Restful Record, we explore the rich, complex, and often tragic history of Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina and a city that has stood at the crossroads of empires and conflict. From the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in 1914—an event that sparked World War I—to the horrors of World War II and the Siege of Sarajevo during the Bosnian War in the 1990s, Sarajevo’s story is one of resilience, multiculturalism, and survival.

We’ll dive into the city's Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian legacies, the rise and fall of Yugoslavia, and how the city became both a symbol of unity and division. Learn how Sarajevo has endured centuries of political upheaval, including the longest siege in modern European history, and emerged with a unique cultural identity.

Whether you’re a history lover, traveler, or just curious about the places that shaped our world, this episode offers a powerful narrative of Sarajevo’s past and present.

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Podcast cover art image by Eric Nopanen.

Transcript

Welcome to tonight’s episode of The Restful Record. Whether you're here for relaxation, to de-stress, or to  fall into a deep sleep, we welcome you. 

I'd like to warn listeners hat this week's episode contains stories of war and may not be suitable for all listeners. 

This season we take a gentle journey through time, exploring the stories of different cities around the world. Before we dive into tonight’s city, let's take a moment to relax together. I invite you to close your eyes, settle into a comfortable position, and take a slow, deep breath in through your nose, hold for a moment, and then exhale slowly through your mouth. Let the weight of your day or your week melt away as you breathe in calm and breathe out any tension you might be carrying. With each breath, feel yourself sinking deeper into relaxation. Now, as we drift through the history of tonight’s city, let the soothing rhythm of my voice guide you deep into relaxation or sleep.

 Nestled in a valley surrounded by the Dinaric Alps, Sarajevo is a city shaped by its dramatic landscape. The Miljacka River cuts through its heart, while the surrounding hills and mountains provide a striking backdrop. The region experiences a continental climate, with cold, snowy winters and warm summers, often reaching highs of 30°C. The diverse terrain has fostered a rich variety of plant and animal life, from dense beech and fir forests to brown bears, lynxes, and wild boars roaming the mountainous areas. The rivers and lakes of Bosnia have long sustained life, supporting fish populations like trout and carp. This natural abundance made the area an attractive place for some of Europe's earliest human settlers.

 Archaeological evidence suggests that humans have lived in the Sarajevo region for at least 10,000 years. The Butmir culture, a Neolithic society that flourished around 2600–2400 BCE near modern-day Sarajevo, left behind intricate ceramics, tools, and evidence of early farming. Excavations at the Butmir site reveal that these early inhabitants cultivated wheat and barley while also hunting red deer, wild boar, and aurochs, the now-extinct ancestors of domestic cattle. Flint and obsidian tools found in the area suggest that they had well-developed stone-working techniques, and their pottery, adorned with spirals and geometric patterns, hints at a complex aesthetic culture. The Butmir people likely spoke an early form of Indo-European or a pre-Indo-European language, though little direct evidence of their speech remains.

 As the millennia passed, the region became a crossroads for migrating peoples. By the Bronze and Iron Ages, Illyrian tribes dominated the landscape, constructing fortified hilltop settlements and developing advanced metalworking skills. The Illyrians were known for their warrior culture, crafting iron swords and bronze jewelry, and engaging in trade with Greek and later Roman merchants. They worshipped a pantheon of deities tied to nature and the elements, reflecting the deep connection between their beliefs and the rugged environment they inhabited. Though their language has vanished, inscriptions in their script suggest it was distinct from Latin and Greek, with its own unique linguistic identity. The arrival of the Romans in the first century BCE marked a turning point, leading to the region’s gradual integration into the Roman Empire—a transformation that would shape the foundations of Sarajevo’s long and layered history.

Sarajevo’s roots trace back to the medieval period when Bosnia was an independent kingdom, flourishing between the 12th and 15th centuries. During this time, the region was shaped by the influence of the Bogomils, a dualist Christian sect that rejected the authority of both the Catholic and Orthodox churches. Emerging in the Balkans, Bogomilism gained significant traction in Bosnia, where it found protection under local rulers. The Kingdom of Bosnia, particularly under Ban Kulin, became known for its religious tolerance, allowing Bogomil communities to practice freely. However, their beliefs put them at odds with both Rome and Constantinople, leading to accusations of heresy. By the 14th century, the Bosnian Church, often associated with Bogomil teachings, had become a defining feature of medieval Bosnian identity.

 As Bosnia reached its peak under King Tvrtko (who ruled from 1377–1391), the kingdom extended its influence across the Balkans, even briefly controlling parts of the Adriatic coast. Despite its strength, Bosnia remained vulnerable to external pressures, particularly from the expanding Ottoman Empire. By the mid-15th century, Ottoman incursions intensified, culminating in the fall of the Bosnian Kingdom in 1463. The Ottomans, who brought Islam to the region, dismantled the Bosnian Church, marking the end of Bogomil influence. Yet, the legacy of this medieval period endured, shaping Bosnia’s unique religious landscape and fostering a cultural blend that would define Sarajevo’s character in the centuries to come.

 In 1461, Isa-Beg Ishaković, an Ottoman governor, founded the city as an administrative and commercial center of the expanding Ottoman Empire. Positioned in a valley along key trade routes, Sarajevo quickly grew around its bustling marketplace, mosques, and inns, reflecting the architectural and cultural influence of the Ottomans. By the 16th century, it had become one of the most significant cities in the Balkans, with landmarks like Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque (which completed in 1532) symbolizing its importance as a regional hub of trade, education, and Islamic scholarship. Under Ottoman rule, Sarajevo thrived as a diverse, multiethnic city, home to Muslims, Christians, and Jews, each contributing to its rich cultural fabric.

 Jumping ahead a few centuries and Sarajevo was the site of one of the most consequential assassinations in modern history—the killing of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria (who was the Heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne) on June 28, 1914. The assassination was carried out by Gavrilo Princip, a  19 year-old Bosnian Serb nationalist and member of the secret society Young Bosnia, which sought to end Austro-Hungarian rule in Bosnia. The region had been annexed by Austria-Hungary in 1908, fueling resentment among Serbs who wanted Bosnia to unite with neighboring Serbia. The Archduke’s visit to Sarajevo on Vidovdan, an important Serbian national holiday, was seen as a provocation, and a group of conspirators plotted to strike. Although an initial assassination attempt involving a grenade failed earlier that day, Princip later shot Franz Ferdinand and his wife, Sophie, as their car made an unexpected stop near the Latin Bridge.

 The assassination set off a chain reaction that plunged Europe into World War I. Austria-Hungary, holding Serbia responsible for the attack, issued an ultimatum with demands so harsh that war became almost inevitable. When Serbia refused to fully comply, Austria-Hungary declared war on July 28, 1914. This triggered a domino effect: Russia mobilized in defense of Serbia, prompting Germany to declare war on Russia and its ally France. Britain then entered the war after Germany invaded Belgium. What began as a regional conflict quickly escalated into a global war, with nations across Europe and beyond joining the fight. The war lasted until 1918, causing immense destruction and leading to the collapse of four empires—Austro-Hungarian, Ottoman, Russian, and German.

 From 1920 to 1945, Sarajevo, like much of Bosnia, was part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, which was formed after World War I by the unification of several Slavic nations. Sarajevo, which had been under Austro-Hungarian rule from 1878 to 1918, found itself in a new political landscape. During this period, Sarajevo grew into a cultural and industrial center, though tensions between its diverse ethnic groups—Muslims, Serbs, Croats, and Jews—remained. The rise of fascism during the 1930s, combined with the interwar economic crisis, saw a surge in nationalist sentiment, which further divided the city. During World War II, Bosnia was occupied by the Axis powers, and Sarajevo fell under the control of the Independent State of Croatia, a puppet state of Nazi Germany. This period saw brutal repression, including the targeting of Jews, Serbs, and Roma, as well as resistance movements led by partisans, with Sarajevo becoming a significant site of partisan activity.

 After the war, in 1945, Sarajevo became part of socialist Yugoslavia under the leadership of Josip Tito. Tito’s regime sought to create a unified, multi-ethnic Yugoslav identity, and Sarajevo symbolized this vision. The city grew rapidly during the 1950s and 1960s, becoming a hub for industry, education, and culture, while its diverse population flourished. Sarajevo’s role as a cosmopolitan city was further cemented when it was chosen to host the 1984 Winter Olympics, an event that showcased the city’s modernity and Yugoslavia’s success under Tito’s leadership. However, underneath the surface, ethnic and political tensions simmered, and by the late 1980s, as Tito’s health declined and nationalism across Yugoslavia rose, Sarajevo, like the rest of Bosnia, would soon find itself caught in the unraveling of the federati.

 In the 1990s, Sarajevo became the epicenter of one of the most tragic conflicts in modern history. The Yugoslav Wars, which began in 1991, were triggered by the collapse of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, a multi-ethnic federation that had been held together by strong centralized rule under Tito until his death in 1980. As nationalist movements gained momentum, Slovenia and Croatia declared independence in 1991, prompting a military response from the Yugoslav People's Army (JNA), which was dominated by Serbian leadership. Bosnia and Herzegovina, home to a mix of Bosniaks (which are Bosnian Muslims), as well as Croats, and Serbs, soon found itself at the heart of the war when it also declared independence in 1992. The Bosnian Serb leadership, backed by Serbia under Slobodan Milošević, opposed this move and sought to create a Serb-controlled territory within Bosnia, leading to a brutal conflict that devastated the country.

 Sarajevo endured the longest siege in modern warfare. On April 5, 1992, Bosnian Serb forces, supported by the JNA and paramilitary groups, encircled the city, cutting off access to supplies and subjecting civilians to relentless shelling and sniper attacks. Over the course of nearly four years, Sarajevo’s residents faced unimaginable hardships—food, water, and medical supplies were scarce, and essential infrastructure was systematically targeted. More than 11,000 people, including 1,600 children, were killed during the siege. The infamous "Sniper Alley," a main boulevard through the city, became one of the most dangerous places as Serbian snipers positioned in the hills surrounding Sarajevo shot at civilians trying to move through the city. The international community condemned the siege, but effective intervention was slow, prolonging the suffering of Sarajevo’s inhabitants.

 The war in Bosnia was marked by ethnic cleansing, mass displacement, and some of the worst atrocities in Europe since World War II. The Srebrenica massacre in July 1995, in which over 8,000 Bosniak men and boys were killed by Bosnian Serb forces, was later recognized as genocide. The international response to the war was initially weak, but after years of failed negotiations and continued violence, NATO launched airstrikes against Bosnian Serb positions in 1995. This military intervention, combined with diplomatic pressure, led to the Dayton Agreement in December 1995, which formally ended the war. Bosnia and Herzegovina remained a single state, but it was divided into two semi-autonomous entities: the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina (mostly Bosniak and Croat) and the Republika Srpska (which were mostly Serb), with Sarajevo as the capital. Although the war ended, its effects lingered for decades, with deep ethnic divisions, economic struggles, and a slow process of post-war reconstruction.

 Sarajevo’s post-war recovery has been remarkable, though scars of the siege are still visible. Many buildings still bear bullet holes, and war memorials throughout the city honor those who lost their lives. Despite the pain of its recent past, Sarajevo has reclaimed its role as a vibrant cultural and historical center, known for its mix of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and Yugoslav influences. Today, the city symbolizes resilience and the hope for reconciliation in the Balkans. However, political tensions remain, as Bosnia continues to grapple with economic challenges and ethnic divisions rooted in the war. For those who visit Sarajevo, reminders of its tragic history are everywhere, but so is the spirit of survival and renewal.

 Amid the devastation of the Bosnian War, Sarajevo found an unlikely source of resilience in cinema. In 1995, during the final months of the war, the Sarajevo Film Festival was founded as an act of cultural defiance, bringing together filmmakers and audiences even as the city remained under siege. What began as a small local event has since grown into one of the most significant film festivals in Southeast Europe, attracting international filmmakers and celebrating independent cinema. In 2001, Sarajevo’s emerging role in global film culture was cemented when No Man’s Land, a Bosnian war film directed by Danis Tanović, won the Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film. The darkly satirical story, set during the Bosnian War, follows two soldiers—one Bosniak and one Serb—trapped in a trench between enemy lines, highlighting the absurdity and tragedy of the conflict. The film’s critical success brought international recognition to Bosnia’s film industry and reinforced Sarajevo’s reputation as a center for storytelling born from struggle. Today, the Sarajevo Film Festival continues to thrive, drawing thousands of visitors and proving that art can emerge even from the ruins of war.

 Sarajevo has a lot of other culture to offer. For example, Sarajevo’s historic Ottoman bazaar, stands today as a testament to the city’s resilience and rich multicultural heritage. Originally built in the 15th century  Baščaršija was once the bustling commercial hub of the region, filled with merchants, craftsmen, and travelers from across the Ottoman Empire. Though it suffered damage in the 19th century due to fires and later decline during Yugoslav industrialization, Baščaršija has been carefully revitalized in the post-war era. Today, its narrow cobbled streets are alive with traditional artisans crafting copperware, carpets, and jewelry, while cafés serve Bosnian coffee in the same style as they have for centuries. 

 On September 8, 2019, Sarajevo hosted its first-ever Pride Parade, marking a historic moment for LGBTQ+ rights in Bosnia and Herzegovina. As the last country in the Balkans to hold such an event, Bosnia had long faced resistance to LGBTQ+ visibility, with previous attempts at organizing public demonstrations met with threats and violence. Despite significant security concerns, over 2,000 people marched through the capital’s streets, advocating for equal rights and an end to discrimination. The parade was heavily guarded by police, reflecting the tensions surrounding LGBTQ+ issues in the country, where conservative and nationalist influences remain strong. Still, the event was a major step forward for Sarajevo’s reputation as a city striving for inclusivity and progress. It signaled a shift in public discourse, encouraging conversations about human rights in a society still shaped by post-war divisions and political instability.

 In the years from 2019 to today, Sarajevo has continued its journey of recovery and transformation while navigating political and economic challenges. As Bosnia and Herzegovina works toward European Union integration, progress has been slow due to political deadlock between the country’s two governing entities, the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Republika Srpska. Despite these obstacles, Sarajevo remains a cultural and artistic center, hosting events like the Sarajevo Film Festival, which draws international attention each year. Tourism has rebounded, with visitors drawn to the city's Ottoman-era bazaars, Austro-Hungarian architecture, and the haunting reminders of its wartime past. However, issues such as youth emigration, unemployment, and government inefficiency continue to impact daily life. In 2020, the COVID-19 pandemic put additional strain on the economy and healthcare system, yet Sarajevo’s resilience was once again on display as the city adapted and pushed forward. Today, in 2025, Sarajevo stands as a city of contrasts—where history and modernity collide, where memories of war linger but do not define its future, and where the spirit of its people continues to shape a path toward renewal and hope.

 Thank you for joining us on tonight's episode of the restful record. Rest well.