Sustainability in Sewing with Polina from Good Fabric

In this episode of the Sewing Social podcast, Polina, founder of Good Fabric, shares her journey into entrepreneurship, the challenges of running a sustainable fabric business, and her views on sustainability in the textile industry. She discusses the importance of eco-friendly practices, debunks myths about ethical fabrics, and offers practical advice for sustainable sewing. The conversation also touches on the evolving relationship between ethical fabrics and fast fashion, as well as Polina's aspirations for the future of her business. In this engaging conversation, the speakers delve into the complexities of fast fashion, discussing its ethical implications, health risks associated with toxic fabrics, and the need for legislative changes. They explore the latest trends in fabrics, share personal experiences with sewing, and express aspirations for future creative projects. The dialogue also touches on the importance of community in the sewing world and the challenges of running a small business. The conversation concludes with a light-hearted game and information on where to find unique fabrics.

Key Takeaways

• Polina's journey to entrepreneurship was fueled by personal challenges and the desire for flexibility as a parent.
• Running a business comes with emotional challenges, especially when taking feedback personally.
• Sustainability in textiles is often a secondary consideration for consumers compared to design and price.
• Deadstock fabrics may not be as sustainable as perceived, often leading to overproduction.
• Mindful sewing encourages consumers to buy less and focus on quality over quantity.
• Sourcing eco-friendly fabrics requires diligence and awareness of certifications.
• Trends in ethical fabrics lean towards niche products that cater to specific needs.
• Polina's aspirations include creating her own unique fabrics and expanding her product range.
• The relationship between ethical fabrics and fast fashion is complex, with fast fashion often prioritising convenience and price.
• Polina enjoys sewing for her daughter and values the creative process over making garments for herself.

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Guest details:

www.goodfabric.co.uk

@goodfabricstore

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Good Fabric

01:45 The Journey to Entrepreneurship

05:18 Challenges of Running a Business

08:11 Understanding Sustainability in Textiles

16:32 Debunking Myths about Ethical Fabrics

20:31 Practical Steps for Sustainable Sewing

22:52 Sourcing Eco-Friendly Fabrics

25:01 Trends in Sustainable Fabrics

27:09 Future Aspirations for Sustainable Fabrics

31:47 The Evolving Relationship with Fast Fashion

32:09 The Dark Side of Fast Fashion

35:28 Health Implications of Fast Fashion

37:06 Fabrics and Trends in Fashion

40:50 Creative Projects and Future Aspirations

43:47 Preparing for Upcoming Events

45:58 Fun and Games: This or That

56:27 Where to Find Good Fabric

Transcript

Speaker 2 (00:01)

Dear lovely listener, welcome to the Sewing Social. I just wanted to acknowledge that this episode was recorded in February 2025. Enjoy! Paulina, thank you so much for joining me today on the podcast. Are you able to introduce yourself to the listeners?

Speaker 1 (00:21)

Of course. Hi, my name is Polina and I am a founder of an online fabric store called Good Fabric. And our, when I say our, me and my imaginary team, our focus is on sustainable, eco-friendly and dressmaking fabrics.

Speaker 2 (00:40)

Can you tell us what actually inspired you to set up the business and what's your background?

Speaker 1 (00:46)

⁓ it's, ⁓ you know, in the prep for this, I was thinking about it, the whole story, how it all came about. And there's been so many factors that kind of led me to it. wasn't just one thing. ⁓ so my background, professional background has been always in fashion. So I'm a production manager. I worked for big brands, startups, small brands, budgets, no budgets. So give me any factory and I'll produce anything.

That's my thing. So sourcing, importing, negotiating, materials, it's what I know. It's what I've been doing. However, now I know it's very different to what I do now. The sidestep hasn't been a complete drastic change to what I know. To kind of backtrack a little bit, I...

was working for a small startup company and I was pregnant. And during my pregnancy, my maternity leave, the company I worked for went into liquidation. So I was made redundant with a newborn, which, know, not ideal. I find that when you work for somebody for a long time, and then when you have a baby, it's much easier to go and negotiate your terms.

Speaker 2 (02:01)

Not ideal, yeah.

Speaker 1 (02:13)

because you have that relationship, you have that trust with your employer. And here I am, you know, looking for a job with the baby and I don't want to work full time. I want to have the flexibility. So I find it very difficult to even find anything suitable. So a couple of freelance opportunities came about. So I was freelancing, you I remember I would walk my dog on the wooden common with the baby in the, one of those things, I can't remember what they're called now. the carrier.

Speaker 2 (02:39)

Yeah,

yeah

Speaker 1 (02:41)

You know, being on the phone, talking to my factories, was, it was all right. I was managing. However, then for some reason I decided that I want to be a grownup. You know, I want to have pension. I want to have a mortgage. I want to buy a house, know, freelancing. You cannot do that. Nobody will give you any mortgage or anything. So one of my clients offered me a job, which was fantastic.

They made me redundant as soon as COVID hit. I had two redundancies in a row in a space of two years, which was very frustrating because it was nothing that my employer did. was nothing. It was so unusual. know, COVID, how can you predict that? I found it very frustrating to put trust into anyone else that will have a say on how my career is progressing, how I my money.

I said, no, you know, I'm in charge of it now. So I wanted to do something of my own. COVID hit. I was on furlough for a couple of months. So I had the income, nowhere to spend it. So literally the good fabric store is a COVID baby funded by furlough money, essentially. But I don't think if I didn't have the redundancies prior, didn't have that frustration, didn't have the baby, didn't have the background, that wouldn't happen.

I would have never left my well-paid job to start a business of my own. know, stars have aligned and I literally did like a pro and cons list, you know, and it just, there was nothing, I had nothing to lose. I didn't know anything. It kind of happened out of almost necessity to build my life around motherhood.

Speaker 2 (04:33)

Yeah, that's amazing. What a lovely story. mean, it's sort of out of real adversity, isn't it? Because like you say, nobody could have predicted what was going to happen during that COVID period. And also two redundancies in a row, basically. But how fantastic that you've managed to build this amazing small business from that situation.

Speaker 1 (04:56)

Yeah, I always say good fabric has been created for me in order for me to be the parent that I want to be. It allows me the flexibility that I need right now. Give me a teenager, I might change my mind. knows? But at the moment, it fits, it makes sense.

Speaker 2 (05:18)

Have there been any particular challenges in setting up or running the business so far?

Speaker 1 (05:25)

So many, so many. It's almost you don't know what you don't know until you make a mistake.

Where do I start? think one of my personal challenges, they're not selling with starting a business, but running a business. I don't think I have a thick skin. Okay. I think I find any feedback that's not positive, not necessarily bad, but like that doesn't align with what I think. I find, I take it very personal. I lose sleep over and I not negative. I've been lucky enough.

to have only maybe a couple in the five years that I've been doing it. I take it very personal, but as a business, I have to be professional. I have to say, I'm sorry, you know, we should do better, know, refund or something. And then I don't sleep for a week.

Speaker 2 (06:22)

I suppose it's like, it's your other baby, isn't it? So it's hard not to take it personally.

Speaker 1 (06:29)

Yeah, I think because all of the decisions are done 100 % by me, I've got no one to almost point a finger, said, ⁓ maybe it was their choice. That's why it didn't work out, but no, it's all on me. And yeah, I find it sometimes emotionally like a roller coaster. I suppose that happens more now as the business grows and you have grow your customer base. Yeah.

Speaker 2 (06:57)

Do you think there'd ever be a point where you might take on staff for example or are you quite happy with it just being you?

Speaker 1 (07:06)

I like working with people that I choose to work with. So I don't jump straight into a relationship. I try and test and see. Sometimes I might collaborate with someone, but their work ethic is not my kind of, know, we did not gel and I was frustrated and now thinking, what if it was my employee?

I don't think I have a bandwidth to manage people at all. So I like to collaborate with people. And by now I've kind of have some great freelancers that I work with on a regular, on a daily basis. Love them. I'll be loyal to them. it's great because it allows me to work with somebody who's nottingham in Bristol and you know, there is no geographical boundaries with this kind of business.

Speaker 2 (08:04)

Yeah, that's really cool.

Speaker 1 (08:06)

I can't imagine having an employee for a while.

Speaker 2 (08:10)

I wanted to ask you, because obviously the ethos of your business is about eco-friendly fabrics and sustainability. What does sustainability mean to you in the context of textiles?

Speaker 1 (08:27)

I'm going to be very controversial. I don't think people that care much about it. When you go to a fabric store or when you choose your fabrics, there are factors that are much more important. People will choose design. People will choose the price, convenience, know, these things are much more important than sustainability. Sustainability.

Speaker 2 (08:29)

⁓ go on.

Speaker 1 (08:55)

And the eco credentials is more like a feature of the fabric, but it's not why people buy it. Mostly. Okay. And I get that. I get, I think it's the same with our food choices, with our cafe choices, with our travel choices. You know, when it comes to parting with our money, there are other factors that matter more for us. And that's just fine. So I try with the good fabric store.

not to preach too much because customers don't come to me to be lectured on sustainability. Which is fine. Again, I think there's so much joy in fabrics and sewing and this is where we bond with customers. We know we get excited about fabric, we get excited about pattern, project. Brilliant. And that's the relationship and that's kind of the vibe of the store I want to keep. Sustainability is what matters to me.

So what I wanted to create is to create like a level playing field for all my fabrics. So it's not a section or a sliver of a corner somewhere that has sustainable fabrics. Everything is sustainable. Everything has an eco-credential. So customer doesn't have to feel bad or guilty by not choosing a sustainable fabric. They just don't even think about it. Just come and shop with me and everything will be fine. ⁓ So sustainability.

Speaker 2 (10:19)

Yeah.

Speaker 1 (10:23)

for me has kind of two aspects when it comes to textiles. It is the human aspect and it's the chemical compliance. This is me being a little bit of a geek. Chemical compliance is a bit of a passion of mine. When I used to work with Ted Baker way back when, I used to look after chemical compliance for the accessories department and I would have a big thick book of all the chemicals and what they do to us.

And it's quite scary if you look at it and I don't want to like create fear, but polyester for example has chemicals that can mess with your endocrine system. without hormones, it can be carcinogenic. So it can contribute towards developing cancers. It can have amodinides, which is also can contribute to cancers.

Speaker 2 (10:53)

Wow.

Speaker 1 (11:21)

High levels of exposure to that is very bad, obviously, for us as humans, but also for people who are making that fabric because they are exposed to those chemicals. So this is poly... And I'm not saying that cotton doesn't have those chemicals, but polyester is like the evil number one. So, which is why for me, it's important that our fabrics have got the eco-credentials that ensure the chemical compliance.

because there's a safety to us as humans and safety to people in the supply chain. This is me being geek.

Speaker 2 (11:55)

That's brilliant. Keep going.

Speaker 1 (11:59)

So that is kind of one aspect. The other aspect with fabrics like organic fabrics with a certification got so global organic textile standard. They have 17 goals that fabric has to do in order to gain that certification. 17 goals is a very, very generic term, but actually kind of scribble down a couple of those goals.

because I can't remember the 17, all of them. But this is what happens when you buy organic fabric. Organic fabric with that certification ensures that people get paid fair wages. The fact that we have to have a third party body that monitors that is sad. But the reality is if nobody's monitoring that, that means there are fabrics out there where people are not being paid to produce them properly.

So there's that human aspect. Another human aspect, which quite interesting, this is if you're into farming, it will probably make more sense. I'm not into farming. I can't grow anything. I haven't got a plant that I can't do it. I find it fascinating. Something called crop rotation. Correct me if my understanding is right. So crop rotation is where you grow different crops on a farm and you essentially rotate them either seasonally in order to

keep the soil rich and full of nutrients and that is important. an organic cotton farm will have other crops growing there, help the cotton but also help to feed the farmer's family. So there is a diversity in the farming that produces organic ⁓ plants that made into fibers later. So when you go, not even like buying fabric, when you go and buy a t-shirt,

Speaker 2 (13:36)

Okay.

Speaker 1 (13:55)

And if it has that God's label, so much went into ensuring the safe practices and safe environment, wages for the people involved in our supply chain. So it's not just, you know, it doesn't harm my body. It creates a livelihood that can be sustainable. It can ⁓ grow next year and grow next year. It's not a seasonal thing.

Speaker 2 (14:13)

Yeah.

Speaker 1 (14:25)

Absolutely. So yeah, these are just a couple of things, but I've wrote this one down because I found it very sad. One of the 17 goals is to have access to clean water and toilet facilities. Does that mean that non-organic farms or places that are not monitored haven't got toilet facilities for people? So they're not treated like humans in a way. It's a little bit sad. And this is where sometimes

Speaker 2 (14:32)

Yeah.

Speaker 1 (14:53)

This is a great opportunity for me to talk about it, but this is not why a customer comes to my online store to buy fabric, right? They don't want to be like, ⁓ either way, did you know? That's not, they want to choose a beautiful fabric.

Speaker 2 (15:06)

do,

but also it's hard to find the right information because we're so overloaded these days with so much information. And that's why it's really important to have these types of conversations because for me, sustainability is a very key aspect. the way that I buy fabric now has drastically changed to when I first started sewing about five or six years ago.

So knowing these things, it helps you to reason why you're doing it, why you're making specific choices. And it also makes you feel a little bit better about why you've chosen that specific thing.

Speaker 1 (15:51)

Yeah, just to kind of add the everything that we've sort of talked about so far, the sustainability and the compliance and what organic farming does, it's not only fabrics, it's everything. It's our food as well. you know, if you go to Sainsbury's and there's a choice between an organic onion and not, there is a reason why organic onion is so much more expensive for exactly the same reasons. It is hard to make those choices.

consistently, consciously all the time because of convenience, price, availability. But always say, the best that you can. Buy the best that you can.

Speaker 2 (16:32)

Do you think that there are any sort of common misconceptions that people have about these ethical fabrics?

Speaker 1 (16:39)

I'm going to be a controversial. Dead stock. Somebody, I had this conversation with a customer the other day. And she said, is that stock sustainable? In a short answer, I say, no, it's not.

And maybe this is, there are a couple of stores, I think are doing brilliant job and they sell true dead stock, which is a new craft house. Can't fault them. think they're brilliant. So if you ever want the dead stock fabric, that's where you go. The reason why it's not sustainable in a more generic term, it costs a mil to produce 600 meters. Same amount it is to produce 800 meters.

Speaker 2 (17:28)

Bye.

Speaker 1 (17:29)

So quite often, because there's so much demand for that stock, they will produce more knowingly that they can sell. There are agents who just go around and sweep up all of that. And then they approach stores like me saying, would you like this? This is that stock. So leftover from the factory, which is, I don't believe is true. Unless it came directly from a designer who has stopped the collection or, you know, ceased trading.

And for example, like that's how new craft house get their stuff. Quite often it's from sad situations where the businesses have closed down. So yeah, there's a whole industry been created for this kind of, ⁓ ex designer dead stock. So I don't think we're saving anything from landfill as such. They're overproducing. And then we go back to what I believe sustainable is natural fiber. It's certified fiber.

ensuring all of these practices that we've talked about are in place, know, safety and compliance. There is zero information, absolutely zero. We know nothing about debt stock. So we are fueling a whole side of industry that can be actually harming everyone in their supply chain. I've made a mistake. I have sourced debt stock.

through these agents before at the beginning of my business, but then I decided to completely stop. So I've still got a couple of fabrics I need to eventually somewhere, you know, find a new home, but this is not what we're going to stock in the future. I get bombarded weekly by agents, get emails on Instagram offering this dead stock. It's huge amounts. Like today I had an email.

saying we've got more than thousand meters available of this 100 % 50 % wool, 50 % polyester fabric. Would you like it? It's death stock. It's not monitored. There's nothing sustainable about it.

Speaker 2 (19:38)

People think that they're doing a good thing, don't they? The customer thinks they're doing a good thing because it's labeled as this dead stop. But there needs to be more information about that.

Speaker 1 (19:50)

Yes, but then I've had designers in the past reach out and I had some of their fabrics and they've asked me not to name them. For whatever reason, it's their choice. But then again, then there's no transparency. I wish I could say it came from this designer for these reasons. Therefore it is true Death's Dog. yeah.

But then I think New Craft House are doing a great job. They've been recently BQOP certified because of all the efforts that they've been doing and I believe in them.

Speaker 2 (20:31)

Do you think there are some like simple steps that individuals or your customers can take to make their sewing more sustainable?

Speaker 1 (20:41)

go less. I want to say buy less. This is so funny. I remember, think Vivienne Westwood, she launched a new collection and she said, don't buy it. You don't need it. Do not buy it. yes, Instagram is a great place to connect, to chat about things, but the amount of sewing challenges that there are, what is the purpose of them? get

I get the sense of community and the general topic, but is this the best way? We're fueling of sewing more more and more. then I do see lovely, beautiful creations.

I don't think anybody needs 20 dresses every year. So no, we are sewing a lot.

Speaker 2 (21:32)

It's sort of counterintuitive when you're a business trying to sell things, isn't it? But, know, your core belief is really that we all need less. So it's a hard balance, I imagine.

Speaker 1 (21:46)

Yeah.

You know, it's funny, I always say that our business of fabric stores is very seasonal. Yeah, so if it's a rainy day, miserable weather, winter, that is perfect environment for most. see like, you know, November, December, January is my best month all the time. ⁓ Last three days we had a sunny day. I've had zero orders.

Speaker 2 (22:18)

my goodness.

Speaker 1 (22:20)

which is very rare these days. I think we've so been son-deprived, which I'm not panicking. I absolutely, I get it. You don't want to be at home sewing right now. It's beautiful for once. Go outside, enjoy. So mindful sewing. Sew what you need, I think. Yeah. And sew less, but please buy.

Speaker 2 (22:45)

How do you source your fabrics and sort of ensure those eco-credentials?

Speaker 1 (22:52)

All the eco credentials, they have a certificate numbers, which is on an open database. So when some, when the factory approaches, if I approach a mill and I ask, has it got certifications, which to be honest, most days the factory will straight away put it in their fabric specs. So I can see it without even asking. And I could just go, log in, type in, and I can see the factory there and that the certification is valid for another year.

So there is a bit of a due diligence that needs to take place. It's not hard to double check. In fact, these certifications are in place. How do I source them? So recently I attended a London textile fair. believe that's name of it. It's one of the biggest London.

sourcing events. It happened at the same place where the Stitch Festival is happening in a couple of weeks time in March. I've been chatting to a couple of other stores about their feedback and what they thought of that. It had, I want to say thousands of manufacturers there and it was a sea of polyester. There was literally nothing. There was not a single manufacturer that sold sustainable fabrics.

Everybody had a sliver of section. A lot of it was recycled polyester, which I don't class as sustainable fabric at all because it's still chemicals. It's still harmful. So it is hard to find suppliers who value ethical practices, value chemical compliance enough to make it the core business. But there are a couple.

They are significantly more expensive. I was in my trade secret, once I find them, I hold on to them.

Speaker 2 (24:53)

Are you seeing any particular trends in the ethical fabric industry at the moment?

Speaker 1 (25:01)

I've got a couple of fabrics that are quite unique to my store. And I think, I don't want to say it's a trend, it's a myth. Maybe because no one else does it. I have a hundred percent organic tools, which I have brands buying from me. have, it's literally people are buying in America, New Zealand, because it's so unique. It's very, very soft.

Like my daughter actually has a sketch in it. It's nothing like what you think too is, it's just a flowy little see-through mesh. So I think the more niche the product.

the better, the more demand I have for it. So organic tools, organic velours, you know, the juicy couture, but the organic option. again, for babies, that's what you need. cannot, you know, when it's a newborn, you have to put them in the best fabric you can. And velour is like the snuggly cozy onesie fabric. So I do see repeat customers for that every time I introduce more colors.

realize I've only got one column left right now. I really need to order more. So yeah, I think it's not the trend, but the more niche product, the bigger the demand. So I need to kind of focus on growing that range. Yeah.

Speaker 2 (26:16)

you

And what's tulle normally made of? Is it polyester?

Speaker 1 (26:32)

Yes, it's plastic. It's 100 % plastic. It's stiff, it's scratchy, whereas ours is, it's like organic dirt. That's a cloud, Yeah, you would sew probably like a skirt and then you'd put the mesh on top for like an extra frill layer. That's what I think customers are doing. Maybe for lingerie as well. It's a bit of a sexy lingerie because it's see-through.

Speaker 2 (26:51)

Yeah, that's

What are your hopes for the future of sustainable fabrics?

Speaker 1 (27:09)

Hope to live another day.

No, we're coming to end of my financial year soon. So of course my accountant is talking to me and we're looking at and analyzing and I'm not seeing growth as a business because I opened in COVID, which is the perfect store. It gave me a false sense of what it's like to run the business. I thought this is the sales, this is the normal.

But I remember the soonest the lockdown was lifted in my sales dropped by 90%. So it's been really difficult to kind of gain the momentum, but you know, five years in like irregular, but slow. And I need to make some big moves. I don't know what those big moves are. I don't know. I toyed with idea of like exhibiting at the Stitch Festival.

You need a team and a half to do that. ⁓ Running a business is not only about yourself and how much work you put in, it's also what happens in your personal life. Not necessarily, I'm not talking about like big things, but have you got childcare? Have you got grandparents that can look up to it? What's your mortgage like? Is your partner available to chip in?

And in my situation, my partner, although he earns lovely, thank you, because he keeps us of love. He has zero flexibility in his job, zero. He's at work by the time we're still sleeping. So the idea of like exhibiting at a Stitch Festival, like what am I supposed to do with the child, with the dog? just, and it just gets so overwhelming that I cannot do it. I know I've spoken to.

Tanya from Brunella Fabrics and you know, she summons her in-laws and her husband and you know, a lot of things need to happen in order to be able to make these big moves. I just think I'm not there yet. However, last year I did my first fabric fair, which was in Farnham, in Farnham Martins, which is lovely.

It's an hour away out of London from me. So it's quite nice because I can put everything in a car, drove there. It was lovely. Really enjoyed it. And this year they're doing it for two days now. So it's on 13th and 14th of June. And it's got some great lineup already like Lamazzi's there, Bornella's there, Pattern Paper Scissors. I don't know if Fabric Godmother's there, but they did definitely attend in the past.

My favorite indie small businesses there, so much fabric. I don't know if you've ever attended Farnham Malting. It's nothing like what Stitch Festival is. ⁓ It's a very interesting building. It's a venue building where ⁓ you go from a room to room. Every room's different. It's beautiful. It has a very cozy atmosphere.

I felt comfortable exhibiting that on my own. I did have to summon my in-laws still to happen. yeah, so kind of that is my next move. Not necessarily a big move to make a dent. If you have any ideas, send them my way.

Speaker 2 (30:51)

I certainly will. That sounds amazing though. I often see that event advertised but it's so out the way for me and I'm like, no, I wish I could go but...

Speaker 1 (31:03)

Where are you based?

Speaker 2 (31:05)

I'm in Nottingham so right in the middle of... Is that like... Where is it again? Kentway? South South.

Speaker 1 (31:12)

South.

It's an hour away from London into Surrey. like Guildford Reading way. Not necessarily great for transport links. think it's literally, you know how when we have Birmingham and Harrogate, it's for the top part of the country. This is for the bottom part of the country. It is far.

Speaker 2 (31:38)

Well, I hope that goes really well if you decide to do that again.

Speaker 1 (31:43)

Yeah, definitely doing this. It's just it's too early to shout about it. I guess.

Speaker 2 (31:47)

Yeah.

Get shouting. How do you see the relationship between ethical fabrics and fast fashion evolving?

Speaker 1 (31:52)

I do, yeah, maybe.

Those two doggos are hand in hand at all. Fast fashion is

What's wrong with the world? In a very dramatic way. ⁓ I think there's different fast fashions there are pure evil ones talking about Sheen and Timo and ⁓ I don't even know the other names. And then there is a more affordable, questionable Zara's and H &M's. ⁓ I think we have to give credit

to people's intelligence, you know, we all know, nobody believes that chin is good. It's just people don't care enough. How do we make people care? I think as long as something will be cheaper, something a bit easier, more convenient, fast fashion will be here. Now we're the only way that we can somehow

make it better. think it has to come from legislation from the government. There's a recent legislation, I don't know if you've heard about it. can never get my initials right. GPRS, GRPS.

Speaker 2 (33:24)

yes, yeah.

Speaker 1 (33:25)

One of them that prevents, well, it doesn't prevent, but it creates a step for businesses to ship to the EU. And the step is safety. We have to comply with making sure everything's safe. It's frustrating that that has been created because it affects. It just created a red tape, but something a bit much more drastic needs to happen.

that creates red tape for the brands like Sheen. For example, when I used to work, I don't remember for who now, I have many jobs, but in my production jobs, I've always worked in China. China is where I would spend four times a year trips and controversial not, I love China. Chinese people have got the best work ethic and state of the art factories. Brilliant.

These don't even matter. They're amazing. In China, you can produce anything you want. How bad, good, and you ship it into the world. So sometimes we do get a lot of bad stuff coming out of China because there is nothing that's stopping. To ship into China, it's impossible because we had to have chemical compliance testing.

for every product, for every batch that we were shipping into Chinese market. They protect themselves from nasty inputs. So something like that needs to be implemented for fast fashion throughout the world. Because there's so many reports of saying, know, Shein has got this chemical, that chemical, and why isn't there a legislation that stops it? So I think that's the way

can happen because as long as the decision is on a consumer who's driven by price and convenience, she no longer exists.

Speaker 2 (35:28)

Yeah. And like you say, so there's a huge knock-on effect, there? It's not just what ends up in landfill because generally fast fashion is poor quality, not very nice fabric. You know, it's not just that. You mentioned earlier, there's a health implication. So if we're wearing clothes and using fabrics that have got basically toxins in them,

It's got an impact on our health system, hasn't it? Everything's got a knock-on effect.

Speaker 1 (36:04)

Yeah. I have been in situations where we had to pull products off the shelves because of due diligence testing. So we did the testing at factory levels, know, or we had the pre-existing relationship with our suppliers. I'm talking about not good fabric, but the jobs before. And then I had a budget where I'd pick random products and I would do due diligence testing for chemical. And I remember it was bracelets.

⁓ and yeah, they had too much lead. ⁓

Speaker 2 (36:41)

Wow.

Speaker 1 (36:42)

So yeah, had to like, you know, it was a big brand so had thousands of them had to be pulled off. I know a question what happened to them? ⁓ Right.

Speaker 2 (36:54)

Yeah. On sort of a different tack, have you got any favourite fabrics in your store at the moment?

Speaker 1 (37:06)

I know we're kind of coming into spring, but all my winter has been all about the Sherpa fleeces. And I got so excited when I discovered them because they're not like super, super shaggy, but they have that effect. So they're not smooth like a fleece. So they have the Sherpa in it. And they were made a hundred percent cotton. So out of all my supplier base,

the only one that did a hundred percent option. Everyone else did a blend with a poly in it. So I got super excited and I loved them and I bought so much. I'm so happy because our supplier went into administration. So they kind of stopped trading in the middle of the winter, but then luckily they'd been bought by a bigger supplier, which means lots of new changes.

So they've dropped a couple of ranges that I stock, which is very sad. And I don't know what's going to happen to my sharp-up leases. I see their color card not being replenished. Like if the color sells out, it doesn't have a new due date. But I don't know if it's because we're coming into a spring and it's just not needed at the moment or is it going. So yeah, I love, I love. ⁓

a cosy fabric. be honest, I prefer sewing on an overlock. I prefer jerseys.

Speaker 2 (38:34)

Yeah.

Speaker 1 (38:35)

comfortable and less fitting darts can't handle or zips. So yeah, Sherpas are my pride and butter for now.

Speaker 2 (38:37)

Yeah.

Great. I saw you had lots of lovely colours, which isn't always a thing that's available.

Speaker 1 (38:54)

Yeah. Yeah, we literally, I'm just looking at them. I think we're down to like last few meters. We do have, know, every now and again, there's a fabric that everybody loves so much and it's like a golden nugget because as a store, just to give you an idea, we'd buy fabrics on both like that. And they're usually eight to 12 meters quite often.

Speaker 2 (39:00)

Aww. But yeah, fingers crossed.

Speaker 1 (39:23)

That's all I'm ever going to get. And I'm just going to get new colors and new colors so I can keep stock flowing. So for me to reorder the same fabric, you know, it has to be a good seller. And there've been a couple of fabrics in the last year that I've sold more than like a hundred meters off, which was gold, silver and glossy black twills. Okay. I loved them, but I haven't seen many makes of them.

Speaker 2 (39:46)

I saw them.

Speaker 1 (39:53)

I think it's one of those... I've seen a bat.

Speaker 2 (39:56)

Yes, that's the one I was going to say. Yeah, they were really cool. I just think I was a bit unsure what I would make with it, but they were really cool.

Speaker 1 (40:08)

Yeah, I like an unusual one. It's funny, some of my bestsellers, I would order and cancel or I would go back and forth, not sure, because it's a bit of a risk. I'm not a risk taker. But then yeah, I would just try it out and it would just be the bestseller. Happened a times.

Speaker 2 (40:31)

That goes to show, take a risk.

Speaker 1 (40:34)

I do need to take some risks. said I need to make some big moves. I just don't know what they are. As a small business, there's a financial repercussion to a mistake and I just don't have enough in the cash flow to make the mistakes.

Speaker 2 (40:50)

Yeah, I totally get it. Are there any projects that you're dreaming of making at the moment?

Speaker 1 (40:58)

I have spoken, I think over the last few years, few times about producing our own fabrics. But then I also quite like working with other people and with designers because I'm on my own. So if I was to drop the relationships that I have with the brands and create my own, I think I'd be even more lonely. ⁓

There is something exciting. You know, sometimes I feel like, ⁓ there isn't a leopard print organic cotton jersey. This does not exist. I don't understand why. And I need to create one one day. So I do see some gaps I would like to fill in terms of fabrics, but I just think I'm not there yet mentally.

Speaker 2 (41:46)

you

Speaker 1 (41:58)

financially ⁓ not there. What else? love, a couple of years ago, I did a kits, which was mitten kits. yeah. I had, I was sewing like a factory because I was making three fairs for the photo shoot. I was making them at the same time and there's so many colors and they all have thread and then the top stitching thread.

It was a challenge, but I really enjoyed it because it was so much going into that project. I worked with a brilliant photographer who is local to me, which was exciting. I really liked making a kit like that, that doesn't require fitting because then you can make it as a present or you can gift the whole thing. I definitely want to

Speaker 2 (42:44)

Yeah.

Speaker 1 (42:57)

expand more into kits, but like, not just putting things together, but you know, maybe developing something from scratch or with collaboration with a designer, maybe a bag kit. This is what somebody told me to do. There's a reason why in my professional career, I was always in accessories and handbags. So this is why bags for me, because bags.

Speaker 2 (43:23)

Yeah, definitely. Well, I think bag making has took off massively recently, so that would be definitely something to try and get into if you can.

Speaker 1 (43:34)

Yeah, there's so many components.

You also want them to match and you want them to be good. So it makes sense. need to do some work.

Speaker 2 (43:44)

Are there any, you see we've already spoken about a few things, is there any other exciting plans that you have for good fabric?

Speaker 1 (43:55)

At the moment, think my focus is the final maltings fair, which is happening. I know it's in June, but it's crazy how much prep is required. Obviously last year was my first time, so I got all the furniture. Whereas this year I want to make my stand stand out. All the bits and bobs. I've been working with Brilliant Illustrator on creating some

cards, ⁓ which

Speaker 2 (44:29)

Is it Ella? Illustrated. Because I think she's from Nottingham. Yeah. ⁓

Speaker 1 (44:34)

She's from Nottingham.

I know there's so many creatives in Nottingham because of the university as well. I have so many friends that went to Nottingham. Yeah, so I like, I think I want to give the brand and the stand a little bit of a look to create all the bells and whistles. Maybe it's just, I don't know why I think this is a priority. Maybe it isn't.

Speaker 2 (44:41)

Yeah, yeah, yeah.

Speaker 1 (45:04)

Gotta feed my creative solace with all I do.

Speaker 2 (45:07)

Yeah, yeah. So that's your main plan.

Speaker 1 (45:13)

That's my main plan for now because Blink and before you know it, know, soon I'm going to have to start buying stock and ⁓ analyzing what went well last year because it's a very different client there. It's online, you know, you've got the whole world to cater to, but when you go to a specific location area, people did not care about sustainability or my niche fabrics there. They wanted prints and

Speaker 2 (45:26)

Okay.

Speaker 1 (45:41)

bold things and which I understand, especially in the height of summer. So I need to have a little think about what I'm going to bring. Sausage, salad.

Speaker 2 (45:49)

Yeah, definitely. Go for it. I thought we would finish off with a little game of this or that, if that's okay with you. You've already answered my first question because I was going to ask you woven or stretch, but you said stretch, didn't you? Yeah.

Speaker 1 (45:58)

That's fun.

100 % stretch. love my overlocker. This is a myth when people say overlockers are scary or you don't need one. Get it. It's the best thing.

Speaker 2 (46:17)

I agree. To your coffee.

Speaker 1 (46:20)

⁓

this is a... I'm on three coffees a day and about three teas a day.

Speaker 2 (46:27)

⁓ so 50-50.

Speaker 1 (46:29)

50-50 I have to have both.

solids. I am not a print. This is the mistake I think a lot of us sewists make, especially when we're new, not printer is mistake. We look at other sewists and their creations and we love how it looks on them. I don't have a skirt. I've never worn skirts in my life. And all of a sudden I felt inclined to wear, to make a skirt in a print. And it's just, it's not me.

And then you go through the whole process of buying and making, and then you put it on and even if it fits, it's just not you. Yeah. So I think sewing and making all the conscious decisions prior the garment is made makes you really learn about what your style is and what your preferences are. a hundred percent not a print girl. I think I've made few dresses and I sadly don't wear them.

Speaker 2 (47:36)

Yeah. I actually have a huge preference towards solids as well. So like the top I'm wearing today, it's one plain colour, but it's got some interest in it. And it just means it's really, I can wear it with loads of things. I'd be inclined to the solids as well. Staying in or going out.

Speaker 1 (47:52)

Yeah.

I've been an out-out going out person. I come from a small city. went to a small, like a tiny school. I had only one other girl in my class. had nine children in my class. So my circle of friends is very small and now we have kids, but I think what I have is more specific people. I don't know what to do with people. I'm so used to working on my own.

but sometimes I forget what it's like, you know, how do you dress up in public? What, what do you do in public? but I had the, the storm, a perfect storm of paternity going into COVID, into creating a business. So I feel like I've been sort of a liquid, close for a good part of like seven, eight years. And.

I really need to get out more. need to get out more, but staying in all the time.

Speaker 2 (49:05)

Yeah. When you're sewing, would you rather listen to a podcast or watch a YouTube video or neither?

Speaker 1 (49:14)

silence, dead silence, not even music. And when I hear my dogs tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, I'm like,

Speaker 2 (49:23)

Alright.

Speaker 1 (49:24)

I think I really value silence. can hear myself think, or sometimes my brain can just, you know, think without me even controlling it. know, sounds weird. What do call it? Meditating, Yeah. Yeah. So I have to focus as well. It's a bit like driving. I like to drive in silence.

Speaker 2 (49:48)

scissors or a rotary cutter?

Speaker 1 (49:54)

I have a rotary cutter and I want like, it doesn't cut anything in my opinion. I don't understand like the amount of pressure that you need to put on and I don't have the mat. So I've just stacked up some magazines and it was like shredding. was, no, it didn't work for me. It was brand new rotary. I don't know. about you?

Speaker 2 (50:17)

like scissors all the way as well. I like the sound and I like the feel of it. ⁓

Speaker 1 (50:24)

I have seen on socials, know, these kinds of professional services, they're almost plugged in into something and they're just layers and layers. go, that'd be fun.

Speaker 2 (50:36)

Yeah, it does look fun to be fair. A zero printing or PDF.

Speaker 1 (50:42)

I don't mind either. I I will have a look obviously how many pages there are. If there are like 60 plus, then probably I will go for a printer. And I do think that assembling PDF is a very good kind of mindful practice. Not necessarily the category, not the autonomy of it, but you look, you you're literally looking at the pattern pieces and you're reading and you're trying to make sense of it.

And before you even kind of got into the pattern cutting, you know, okay, this is what my front piece looks like. This will go here. That will go here. It just kind of, it's like a puzzle that makes sense to you. It helps it make sense once you're kind of facing with it for like half an hour, how long it takes to assemble. I think it's, you know, be in a mood for it. Maybe that's when you need some music. But I don't mind it.

Speaker 2 (51:39)

Yeah.

Speaker 1 (51:42)

It doesn't scare me.

Speaker 2 (51:43)

it like that, that's really interesting that it could be its own mindful practice. That's really interesting.

Speaker 1 (51:50)

Yeah. Well, can be very frustrating when you don't understand it, but then that's a good sign, right? You want to make sure you understand it before you get to the fabric bit.

Speaker 2 (51:59)

Yeah, don't want to waste that precious fabric. An organized stash or creative chaos.

Speaker 1 (52:01)

operate.

I would like to say organized stash because that's what I would like to take, but I do not want to turn around my laptop right now for you to see the other corner. Because it's just me, there is a creative mess that makes sense to me. So I know I've got a carpet where I am because my daughter comes often to the studio, so I have a carpet which is used now for fabric storage as well. Not necessarily in an organized way.

I know that that pile is that, that pile is that and makes sense to me, but I'd like to be a bit more organized for sure.

Speaker 2 (52:42)

Wouldn't

we all? Wouldn't we all? Do you prefer making for yourself or others?

Speaker 1 (52:49)

The only other person I've ever made for is my daughter, which is fun because you can be as ridiculously crazy as you want. She will wear it. She will want it. I rarely make things for myself, super rare to be honest. ⁓ I've made this t-shirt. Can't really see, but it's got this very cool ⁓ two panel piece t-shirt.

Just like a little feature. Yeah. But yeah, I rarely sew for myself. The reason why probably is not even the time. I don't go out. Like I work by myself. I work a lot from home and most of my friends are my neighbors and mom friends. And you know, we're all in our confies in the playground. Yeah. The little clothing that I, my wardrobe is not big but the little clothing that I have.

is enough. I do not need clothes. So I think if I have an itch to scratch to sew something, my daughter will love that.

Speaker 2 (53:59)

That's great. And I suppose this one you've already answered, but I was going to say the way that you work with your sewing, would you have one project on the go or would you have a few?

Speaker 1 (54:13)

Um, definitely one sewing project at a time. don't think I have the space as well. Right. It's not a project that you do in a corner. You need ironing board, you need them. It's a lot. So definitely one project. However, I do have more than one project, creative projects on the go. A hundred percent. Um, I love crocheting, um, dolls. There is this brand called Toff.

And you know from the Stitch Broth Festival, they do the most ridiculously amazing stands. And every International Women's Day, this is a bit of a promotion, non ad promotion. Every International Women's Day, they have a subscription box. But on International Women's Day, you can just buy the pattern and the kit without subscribing. And the subscription is for creating dolls of women who change the world.

Speaker 2 (54:44)

Yeah. Yeah.

That's amazing

Speaker 1 (55:15)

So I am in the process almost finishing my Rosa Parks. There is like a scientist, artists, you know, my daughter was like, how can you make me Amelia? Airheart and Pankhurst and yeah, Lawrence Nantingdale, Frida Kahlo, like it's a beautiful dolls with all of obviously the features accentuated to make it fun.

Speaker 2 (55:20)

⁓ That's adorable!

And how

Yeah, Emily and cursed.

Speaker 1 (55:45)

So yeah, I do have more than one kit waiting to happen. ⁓ And I'm very much toying with the idea of going to the Stitch Festival because I do not need to go there. ⁓ I'm scared I'm going to spend money, not on a fabric, but on a crochet kit. do not. This is my weakness, I suppose, because the fabrics, I get to live vicariously through all of you guys.

I'm all day surrounded by this beauty and I don't have, but it was just something with the crochet that I love.

Speaker 2 (56:21)

So cute. Love that. Paulina, where can people find you?

Speaker 1 (56:27)

Ooh, so ⁓ goodfabric.co.uk, easy. I'm an online business. However, we do have a studio in Wimbledon, which is where I am right now. ⁓ There's more creative mess over there. So the studio is in Wimbledon. I've always been in Wimbledon. Just lots of creative spaces here, that's why I guess, and it's quite close to home.

But anybody who's local or traveling to London, Southwest London, because London's big, more than welcome to come in and shop in person. We do have probably once a week, somebody coming in, shopping in person, which is quite handy because it's not set up like a store, it's set up like a studio where people come with their projects and their threads and they're matching bits and bobs and we get chat about.

all the projects and all the dreams and all the sewing plans. yeah, online and in person. Just give me a message first because I'm not always here.

Speaker 2 (57:31)

Lovely. Paulina, you've been amazing. Thank you so much for joining me on the Sewing Social podcast. Thank you.

Speaker 1 (57:39)

Having

me? This been fun.

Speaker 2 (57:41)

Great, take care.