Little Roads Unfiltered: Italy and Beyond

Exploring Lake Trasimeno

Season 2 Episode 11

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Today we’re talking about one of our favorite spots in Italy - the lake, the towns around it, the food in it, and a few unusual sights in the vicinity. 

We’ll discuss The local delicacy that they call “Fish Queen”; a hidden Leaning Tower in the woods; and a castle passageway so narrow they have a stoplight to even walk through it.

We'll talk about the special foods of this area, fishy and otherwise; and we'll touch on the history and legend connected to this beautiful little lake.


Want to know more about us and our travel services? Find us at: 

www.LittleRoadsEurope.com

www.facebook.com/LittleRoadsEurope

We craft small-town driving itineraries for travelers to Italy, Ireland and Scotland.

And our "alter-egos" as musicians:

www.OrsiniVirtuosi.it

Note: This is not a complete transcript, but rather the show notes we write in advance to prepare for the episode.

INTRO: 
Welcome to Little Roads Unfiltered: Italy and Beyond 

Today we’re talking about one of our favorite spots in Italy - the lake, the towns around it, the food in it, and a few unusual sights in the vicinity. 
We’ll discuss:
- The local delicacy that they call “Fish Queen”
- a hidden Leaning Tower in the woods
- the castle passageway so narrow they have a stoplight to even walk through it

[music up] 

This is Matt Walker… and I’m Zeneba Bowers 

We’re recording our chat here while sitting on the terrace of our tiny home in Italy - so you’ll get a sense of the sounds of life in our little town. We want this to be more like a casual conversion with us - complete with church bells, cats meowing, motor scooters and whatever else 

…so join us as we talk about Lago Trasimeno - 
… here on Little Roads Unfiltered: Italy and Beyond.”

For those of you who don’t know us: We are professional musicians and also travel writers and consultants, living and working here in Italy for the past 6 years. 
If you want to learn more about us and our lives, you can find us on our website LittleRoadsEurope..com, on our socials, and now here on this podcast.

So let’s get to talking about Lake Trasimeno!

In NW corner of Umbria, very shallow lake (5-6 m max) - “closed basin” (no outlet), but Romans built a trench to connect it to Tiber river, again in Renaissance times, in part to control mosquitoes

Recent: FLIES! Tiny little flies (moscerini) in swarms of (seems like) millions, no biting or stinging, but nuisance. They’re countered with systems of lights (NOT pesticides). 

LEGENDARY: the lake nymph Agylle fell in love w “Trasimenus”, son of Etruscan king (or Etruscan god, depending on source)

Towns:
Castiglione del Lago: on W side (“9 o'clock”) Biggest town on lake, on high peninsula
- lakeside bars, “Bar No Stress”
The castle part of “Castiglione” - High point on peninsula: 
Rocca del Leone 13th c. - park surrounding old castle walls
Towers in fortress - views from this point — used now as amphitheatre for shows 
Get to fortress through the 16th C. Palazzo della Corgna (museum) - through narrow tunnel
(over 100 m long, traffic light to manage visitors walking across) - arrow slits along the way


Lots of nice restaurants, shops, bars, hotels
Pretty touristy, some stuff shuts in winter, very busy in summer

Outside western gate (Porta Senese) - Tuscan hills/mtns in distance, ceramic tile identifying each hilltown


— “ADVERTISEMENT” BREAK —

That reminds me that we need to stop for a word from our sponsor - - - -  just kidding, we don’t have any sponsors - instead, today’s show is brought to you by: A Good Idea. 

And today’s Good Idea is: Before you yell at someone, ask first. I see a lot of fighting on social media, and often the issue is people making assumptions from a single encounter. Sometimes the other person’s meaning is obvious, but oftentimes asking “What do you mean by that” can clear things up before everyone gets their feelings hurt. 

That’s it!   … So anyway, where were we?

Lake is ringed w castles, some in ruins others residences or event venues, some in towns like Castiglione

Passignano sul Trasimeno (“1 o’clock”) - small cute town, lots of lakeside bars, twisty streets and stairways up from lakeside, castle overlooking lake, famous clock tower

Tuoro: (up in hills N of lake) - nearby is the “Torre pendente di Vernazzano” - leaning tower

Islands: three islands - two have restaurants, castles, roman ruins & old church buildings, remains of windmills 

Foods: (just a few of them)
Microclimate - Fagiolina di Trasimeno (Greek/Etruscan times, pre Roman)
Zone famous for oil, wine - Grechetto (great with fish dishes!)
… Lake fish: pike (luccio), perch (persico), catfish (pesce gatto) and carp (carpa regina) 
Carpa regina in porchetta - fish with trad Umbrian porchetta herbs
Tegamaccio - fish stew cooked in terracotta pot (tegame)
Brustico - lake fish roasted/smoked whole over lake reeds - rich smoky flavor 
(these are just a few)

Ask us anything: Do you guys eat Italian food at home? Or … ? 

Lodging in Cast del Lago: rooftop patio w hot tub, visited several times - once on anniversary (17th?) - Auguri cake for breakfast! 
(same guy who got us to get all those bombole - likes to lay on the sweets for breakfast!)

OUTRO: I think that’s a good place to wrap it up here - we hope you enjoyed our chat about Lago Trasimeno!

Anyway… If you enjoyed our chat today, please give it a like or a good rating, and tell your friends about us… 

We’ll be talking about a wide variety of topics here on this podcast, from travel tips to slice-of-life stories - we’ll be posting a new episode each Tuesday. 

So catch us next time - we’ll see you down the Little Roads… CIAO!